Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas Locked But Still Having Steering Issues

Munkyb0y
 Share

Recommended Posts

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

R33 gtst S1.

My power steering has been playing up periodically.

I fitted a lockbar, but the same thing is still happening, more so now.

eg. Start it up, steering feels normal (light) for a couple of minutes, then gets heavy and stays heavy. If i turn the car off for a minute or so, and back on, it's back to normal for as long as i drive usually. Then maybe on the next start it might be heavy again, or will revert to heavy while driving.

I removed the steering postion sensor from behind the steering wheel. I thought removing it would probably make the steering heavy all the time. It seems to have made no difference.

I removed the hicas fuse from the boot. No difference.

I unplugged the hicas ecu. Steering gets heavy.

So what should i be looking at? The hicas ecu is faulty?

Considering removing the steering position sensor has made no difference, i would imagine that cant be the issue, or removing it would have caused heavy steering constanlty.

And why with the fuse removed do i still get light steering for extended periods? I thought that would kill the whole hicas deal.

Your advice / experience is appreciated.

And also, forget the hicas light. I dont care about the light being on. Just the weight of the steering. I'd gladly replace the hicas bulb with one 10 times brighter, just to have my normal steering back :blink:

Edited by Munkyb0y
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so many responses. please people, contain yourselves :)

another thing that occured to me. i recall reading somewhere, when removing the hicas rack, leave what you can plugged in under there.

well when i removed it, there was only one earth strap to the rear cradle that remained. everything else was just loose ends that i cable tied away.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

i didn't touch anything under the boss kit....

just hooked up the lock bar, cable tied all the new loose ends and crabwalked my ass over for an allignment....

afaik the hicas ECU is the same as the power steering, so disconnecting it will f**k your steering

try to get an ECU from a mate and try that?

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted
How urgent is getting the HICAS computer for you?

Mine will be out in like 2 - 3 weeks

How are you taking it out? I was under the impression you can not take it out without it going into crazy "where the f**k is the HICAS computer gone, im going to take away your power steering mode you son of a bitch" mode.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

This crazy mode it enters... Afaik that's the ecu causing that isn't it? Might need to recheck the wiring diagrams, but I believe it's done by ecu. As such that's already aftermarket.

And I was going to rip everything out out cables and all. I'll test it once I've moved the car. Pull hicas controller out, see if ps is alive

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

from what ive tried, if you remove the hicas computer, power steering goes with it. it may ultimately be up to the ecu, i dont know, but if it is, it doesnt like the hicas computer not being present. either way, the power steering goes.

it would be good to see if you work around this somehow. post up your findings when you get to it.

and wouldnt you know it? my power steering has been behaving itself over the past 2 days. so swapping anything out right now wont tell me much.

Edited by Munkyb0y
GtrVspec Collaborator

GtrVspec

Posted
Posted

well i don't know about dramas after the hicas bar is installed. but i was having the steering dramas before i put the bar in and before i took the car to the mechanici removed the fuse to the Hicas and wouldnt you know the steering is constantly soft and responsive. I have no Hicas ecu anymore and mine hasn't played up after the bar went in either...

GtrVspec Collaborator

GtrVspec

Posted
Posted

Another one ive heard is , you have the lock out bar in , no fuse , and u leave the ecu plugged in but u cut a wire which apprently is what goes to the steering sensor and cutting that wire will apparently eliminate the heavy steering problem. Can't confirm it though havent tryed.

dave_rb20 Enthusiast

dave_rb20

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey mate,

95 r33 here

I had heavy steering issues so did HICAS lockout + alignment.

I experienced intermittent heavy steering issues so removed the fuse which fixed the problem.

Never had problems with arm-breaking steering in 12months UNLESS I take my car through the laser car wash that sprays underside of car with high pressure water jet. This obviously disturbs or shortens out a sensor in the back end of car and problem will reappear until I turn ignition off then on again.

I'd say it's something to do with plugs near the diff.

Cheers :)

Edited by dave_rb20
Chris32R Proficient

Chris32R

Posted
Posted

Does your light come on after 10 or so minutes of driving?

Mine does in my 32R and then it gets heavy steering.

Its getting the Hicas removed at Xspeed, I should get the car back tommorow. I will find out exactly what they removed and if it fixed the heavy steering issue.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what is this plug? the line under it runs to the steering rack.

post-29392-1270075850_thumb.jpg

i unplugged it to check the contacts were clean, and found it was wet in there. so i cleaned it with contact cleaner, and blew it out with a compressor.

drove the car last night and today and steering feels spot on. dont know if this might have been the cause of the intermittent problems or not.

fingers crossed. i guess i'll find out over the next week or so.

the reason i was in there was to clean this plug which runs straight to the solenoid by the looks of it. being under the oil filter, it gets covered in oil at every oil change.

post-29392-1270076021_thumb.jpg

well it was a total b1tch to unplug, really hard to reach, and requires two hands, but there's barely room for one.

cleaned it eventually, but it looked like it was pretty clean, and well sealed from the surrounding oil/grime.

SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted

my light used to come on after about 10mins of driving and stay on, steering didnt realy get heavy

now the light flashes on and off every 5 or so mins, everytime the light goes on (usualy for 2 seconds) the steering gets heavy, soon as the light goes off steering goes back to norm

hecticGTR: yeh bro let us no how u go, if it fixed the problem im locking mine out aswell

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...