Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got my best times on the KU36 starting at 36psi cold. Didn't make note of the hot pressures. But the heavyweight Supra probably put a couple of extra pound in them through heat than your lighter R32.

Cheers guys, that will save me a bit time playing around with pressures! I'm going down in 2 weeks and i'll let u know how i go:)

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey guys, great topic. Any cahance of listing the tyres in some sort of performance category or compound list and with the average prices.

i havent had a new set of tyres on my car yet, still using the secont hand RE55s off the v8 utes. I want to no im spending the right money when the time comes, and you guys seem to have the majority covered. I dont think i can run the bridgestones again at $440 a corner.

My opinion of relative performance and price of semi slicks:

Dunlop DZ03 (expensive)

Bridgestone Re55s (expensive, now)

Yoko A050 (expensive)

Kumho V70A (medium)

Toyo 888 (medium)

Pirelli P-Zero (v expensive)

Yoko A048R (expensive)

Just a guess on the yoko a050 I have not run them personally. they might be quicker than the re55 but its hard to tell because they are a softer compound. Also bridgestone are terrible in the wet with low tread, and the kumhos provide consistent grip well below the wear markers (ie they last a long time without dropping off). Yoko A048 are OK for first 3 laps but drop of really quickly, well before they wear out.

I don't know anything about the 2nd tier tyres (falken azenis, kumho ku36, federal 595rs etc etc) except that you will loose at least a second or 2.

ultimately if you want to win you need to buy new dz03s each time. anything else depends on how much you can compromise.

and for social track days etc.

My opinion of relative performance and price of semi slicks:

Dunlop DZ03 (expensive)

Bridgestone Re55s (expensive, now)

Yoko A050 (expensive)

Kumho V70A (medium)

Toyo 888 (medium)

Pirelli P-Zero (v expensive)

Yoko A048R (expensive)

Just a guess on the yoko a050 I have not run them personally. they might be quicker than the re55 but its hard to tell because they are a softer compound. Also bridgestone are terrible in the wet with low tread, and the kumhos provide consistent grip well below the wear markers (ie they last a long time without dropping off). Yoko A048 are OK for first 3 laps but drop of really quickly, well before they wear out.

I don't know anything about the 2nd tier tyres (falken azenis, kumho ku36, federal 595rs etc etc) except that you will loose at least a second or 2.

ultimately if you want to win you need to buy new dz03s each time. anything else depends on how much you can compromise.

I dont want to hijack the thread but i dont think its worth starting another one for a very similiar topic.

What is the largest set of semi slicks and full slicks that can be fitted on a 32 gtr? I am looking at 295s all round, is this possible or go abit smaller like 275s? Im running 17 inch rims, havent purchased them yet but looking at 10' wide rims too, so will 295s be too wide for those? whats the ideal size for a gtr for time attack sort of stuff. Its a pretty serious engine combo etc so i want as little traction issues as possible.

Whats the best options for full slicks for this sort of stuff, and rough idea on prices?

If the mods feel this isnt on topic then delete it and ill start a seperate thread.

stu I'd run the toyos or kumhos depending which is cheaper for bashing around the track. but sooner or later you will want to know "what is the best time this car can do", and the only way to find out is to put the best tyres on it. About 350 each instead of 500. Careful with second hand ones, they look cheap but can we well and truely rooted even if they still show tread depth (heat cycles kill them not wear)

lets say the dunlop and bridgestone are a second quicker than the next best tyres (possible at some tracks).....imagine how frustrating it is to try and make up that second through power, suspensions settings, different driving lines etc when you could just bolt the right tyres on.

Combined Touring Cars went from A048 control tyres to Kumho V70A and went a full second faster. Then control tyres were dropped, the front runners are buying new dunlops and bridgies, and going 1.5 to 2 seconds faster again. Improved Production still run A048 and despite far more mods being allowed (eg engines are free esp for non turbo cars) their quickest cars are slower than the fastest production cars.

  • 2 weeks later...

Boy, $275 a tyre!! :cool:

Makes me glad to be driving a little buzzox shopping trolley on 15's!! The RSR 595's are $120 a corner, so at that price I might grab a set once the 048's wear out. These are meant to be 140 treadwear - correct? (not sure if I'm reading the specs correctly). These track tyres are all new to me.

Point taken about wanting to know what the car;s capable of. Before I get there, I need to first learn to drive the car properly, then get to know the track (Lakeside) then start thinking about tyres and suspension (it's currently set up for gravel, with about 4" excess ride height). Depending on how well I take to tarmac work (loved lakeside) I'll look at what my options are.

lol.....mine are 500-550 a tyre....

Hi All

Just had a quick glance, on R32 at 300kw,Yoky A050's Softs with, front 34psi Rear 32 Hot at most events up to 5 laps or not too hot a day - on the R33, (370kws) at Oran Park with brand new DZo3's 285x30x18 SR's were a clear second slower than Yoky A050's 265x35x18 this is also case at the same test at Eastern Creek. So keeping this in mind Yoky's wear a bit quicker, produced the best time and over $1000 a set cheaper. although in longer race conditions say 10 - 20 laps, the DZo3s are nicer to drive on.

yeah they have had some great results, on your cars and others in sprints, hillclimb etc.

can't work for me because we have min 3x 20min races and they will just get smashed....even gordon leven were not willing to recommend their hardest a050s for race use.

also not a great deal for most people doing longer track sessions.....but obviously a great choice if you are only doing 3 laps at a time

i have used Khumo semi's and Bridgestone re55.

Bridgies came up to temp earlier and held consistantly lap after lap.

Used khumo's took a while to build up temp and then held really good... they seemed to be good value for money. Not real good for hillclimbs though! :)

i have used Khumo semi's and Bridgestone re55.

Bridgies came up to temp earlier and held consistantly lap after lap.

Used khumo's took a while to build up temp and then held really good... they seemed to be good value for money. Not real good for hillclimbs though! :ermm:

that all depends what compound Kumhos you bought.

Kumho V70's are pretty good value for money and I think they are a very underated tyre, most people write them off as a basic motorsport tyre.

I think this is because when you look at the V70 Semi's, they don't look like your regular RE55 or A048's. The tread depth is very shallow and they don't have huge tread blocks.

However, when I gave them a go; the grip was very good, and they held up to the heat very well. I'm only doing 5 laps at a time but I have excellent grip the whole time.

I can only compare them to Advan A048's I've run previously and they were at least 2 second's a lap quicker.

I would expect more expensive tyres such as DZ03's, A050's and RE55's to be slightly better, but for the price I paid ($330e each for 245/40/17) I'm fairly impressed with them.

Hmmm... Once my Kumho's wear out, I'd really like to try the soft A050's after hearing so many good things about them.

^^^^ That is contrary to our experience with them. we ran them for two Targa Tasmanias, once on a '02 STi and the other time on a 34 GTR, and they were a great tyre, unmatchable in the wet in my opinion.

Their outright dry performance has been surpased now though.

We also found they worked best at lower pressures, liking to start around 24 cold and setting them at 30 hot.

^^ I was about to say the same thing. I don't think I run high pressures in the Kumho's to make them work. I've never had them over 35 psi hot and try to keep them around 32 psi hot.

Also, I had to get a price on the Advan A050's and in 245/40/17 size they are $485 each from Gordon Levin.

Edited by nismoman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...