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Peoples Opinions On Not Relocating The Tensioner

Cartman

By Cartman,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Cartman Rising Star

Cartman

Posted
Posted

Hey all, just wanting to know weather i can get away with out relocating it providing i can get a belt the right size

so heres a few questions for those of you who do alot of these

Is it really nessicary to relocated the tensioner if so what are your reason? 

has anyone got an idea on the length/size/number of teeth required for the belt to be used with standard location of idler and tensioner

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have always re-located it above the water pump as per the DET guide. I don't think there is a right/wrong way of doing it, as long as you can still get the correct tension on the belt, all is good.

Re-locating does make releasing/tensioning the belt a lot easier but. Saves having to remove the lower cover each time.

I have a mate who located his differently to me, and had to cut part of his lower cover away. Just don't go getting all creative like he did, serves no purpose.

Just read the rb30det guide it's all in there. Belt part number for tensioner above the water pump is Dayco 94407. 152 teeth.

Here is a link to a rb30det belt which I assume requires no re-location, I have nfi if you need to use 2x lower tensioners or not but;

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

It's all too easy now for the new rb30 twin cam kids on the block lol, you even get your belt off the shelf.

Edited by James_03
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
fair enough, didnt think of that haha, i guess i'll have to drill it now. 

It's either drill, or cut. And it looks much neater to drill.

I will soon be looking for new covers for my motor when I change to the new block.

Cartman Rising Star

Cartman

Posted
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Posted
It's either drill, or cut. And it looks much neater to drill.

I will soon be looking for new covers for my motor when I change to the new block.

yeah, i'll be drilling and relocating it now didnt want to as this is an ultimate budget slap together but.. i guess i gotta do it :) 

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted
It's either drill, or cut. And it looks much neater to drill.

I will soon be looking for new covers for my motor when I change to the new block.

just weld some extensions onto the top cover (this is what was done with mine) and you barely notice it once it is all painted up.

ST240 Enthusiast

ST240

Posted
Posted
I have always re-located it above the water pump as per the DET guide. I don't think there is a right/wrong way of doing it, as long as you can still get the correct tension on the belt, all is good.

...

Just read the rb30det guide it's all in there. Belt part number for tensioner above the water pump is Dayco 94407. 152 teeth.

I'm getting ready to drill/tap mine right away here. Should a guy use the exact dimensions in the guide ie. 17.7 mm from the deck and 33 mm to the right of that small hole looking at the front of the block?

  • 4 months later...
30ed32 Enthusiast

30ed32

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bring this back up guys, but I will be doing this soon and was just wondering does anyone have any tips of drilling perfectly straight (90*) to the block as I don't like the idea of the tensioner being on an angle even if very slight. Don't want the belt jumping off or anything like that, so how have you guys done it?

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

doesnt have to be perfect if you have the machined surface there, when you tighten up it'll pull itself square.

i used one of the gates belts off just jap and drilled exactly where the guide says to but couldnt even get the belt on, was too far out. ended up using 2 tensioners down the bottom and the belt went straight on, wtf?

dorifticon Community Regular

dorifticon

Posted
Posted
thanks, I don't think I will be getting it machined as I'm on a budget and the engine shop in my town is a mega rip off, but I'd assume it's already pretty flat.

HI there

If you are getting the gates belt that is specifically designed for the rb30 conversion, then you don't need to relocate the tensioner (in fact I don't think it's long enough). In terms of the belt rubbing on the covers, I'm not sure what the issue is - I used an rb30e bottom timing belt cover and the normal rb26 top one, and it seemed fine - the belt was close but it won't rub. I also extended the bottom cover by welding on a bit of carefully folded sheet metal (this is the bit that creates a risk of rubbing IMO so as long as you do that bit carefully should be fine).

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted
thanks, I don't think I will be getting it machined as I'm on a budget and the engine shop in my town is a mega rip off, but I'd assume it's already pretty flat.

most 30 blocks are machined there from the factory

just finished bolting my covers on, used the standard 30 bottom cover and 25 top cover and it clears the belt fine

  • 1 month later...

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