Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my best 60' was 1.55s & 129.75mph

i was also running drag radials which made my 60' :(

tyres were compliments of paul & his mates dog (dave) was eyeing out my nads when i returned them lol

i still blame paul for not cracking a high 10 - he told me to hold in 3rd gear across the line...i was on the limiter for almost 1 sec on my good run (paul u baaaad)

  • Replies 186
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

steve - what back2back tests u doing with yavus, stock v's match ported manifolds?

did u end up going bigger with your exhaust system as well?

Nah no that sort of thing, Pauls referring to his car vs mine as we have a lot of the same parts

Yep the exhaust is going to be a massive step up from the crappy peashooter on there now. I'll get pics up asap for you guys. The best bit? It's specific to rb30 gtr's so no spacers needed :(

and so are uncovered air filters, wheels that are larger than 17inch diameter on an r32 etc etc etc

Check the wheel rules mate, unless they've changed lately you can go bigger than 17's on R32 (vspec2 had 17x9's stock). From memory the rule is 2" up and 1" wider than stock fitment

The uncovered filter rule is pointless with EFI cars. Keep up the good work RTA.

<snip>

Im in for a joint booting from WSID. We can go one after the other in one lane just to make a joke about it. Do you think they'd kick us for slamming the brakes before the finish line?

You could do things a few ways to avoid being booted:

Firstly, you could launch full-steam and back off after half track so that you don't go under 11's. This will give you a decent 60' time and also half-track time and MPH.

Secondly, you could break the beam on the green by creeping forward to trip the start timer...then launch the car and go as hard as you like. This will add to the ET but will give you the correct MPH.

You could then get an estimate of the car's potential by adding the best of both types of runs to see what the car is capable of.

Thirdly, go out for the final run and do a full pass and get booted :D

Then you could go back a couple of months later with different plates and do it all again >_<:D:D

Ideally, you could do this at a private day such as this one:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ws...ay-t331950.html

and get PLENTY of practice runs in before doing a full pass at the end of the day (or when you get bored) and get the boot >_<

Lol, endurance racing much? That's a shitload of fuel

Or just enough to get you to the shops and back on E85... >_<

Also the wheel rules are so farking weird.

Secondly, the surge tank in boot isn't illegal if it is covered and vented properly. (It really should be setup on a charcoal canister like the tank).

This is the same for the battery, if you don't have a sealed battery it is meant to be enclosed and vented outside of the car (For R33s etc)

Yeah smart move. The 1000's just wont do the job

Why are your drags closing? Is there a racetrack where the straight can be used instead? Eastern Creek used to do that up here. Anyway, you get Targa roads, thats more than enough :)

Tarmak has been having trouble for ages. Now they cant form a commitee and doesnt seem like they have the money to keep it running. The track needs lots of attention and last time I raced, after finishing the 1/4 the run off turned to shit and there was pot holes and weeds growing everywhere.

There are 2 tracks in Tassie, Symmons Plains up north and Baskerville down south. But dont think the straight would be long enough.

Lol, endurance racing much? That's a shitload of fuel
Or just enough to get you to the shops and back on E85... :)

Also the wheel rules are so farking weird.

Secondly, the surge tank in boot isn't illegal if it is covered and vented properly. (It really should be setup on a charcoal canister like the tank).

This is the same for the battery, if you don't have a sealed battery it is meant to be enclosed and vented outside of the car (For R33s etc)

Hahaha yeah...with e85 on the cards she will chew a bit...somthing along the lines of 90-100L an hour at full noise

Hahaha yeah...with e85 on the cards she will chew a bit...somthing along the lines of 90-100L an hour at full noise

i think the bugatti veyron goes thru a full tank of fuel in something like 9min @ full revs on the autobarn :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...