Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have with the HKS cast manifold which has the wastegate sitting right on top. The very short run to the gate is the worst it can be if you want to keep both sides divorced. I am guessing there wouldn't be much in it once gasses start moving at any speed.

Is that stainless ?? can't wait to get my stainless mani in favour of mild steel.... might be alright if it doesn't get too hot.

had heaps of issues with turbo to mani gaskets etc, and Grant at Per4manz turbos is pointing the finger at the stainless and turbo rear having different expansion rates...stainless is something like 10mm per 1m.

you might not be putting as much heat as the TO4 at near on 2bar, so might not have any issues...just saying (-:

I think so, but looks identical to that one. no cracks or anything, just trouble mantaining a good seal between turbo and mani, Grant thinks due to stainless flange against cast mild?? , had them both faced a couple of times, tried every type of gasket. The permeflex ( or whatever its call ) 5 layer one thats on know seems to be holding up, but hasn't seen too many long track sessions yet.. next time it lets go, its a 6-boob steam pipe or similar.

Pffft PJ. Joels is slowly catching up. U too should race :) rules are no higher than 6000rpm hahaha

Just got his off the dyno, full boost 24psi @ 4300rpm revving to 7500 335kw

Will push for more boost soon. Had to take it for a run

E-Flex, that's E85 yeah?

Top end power is great but a little laggy? I'm reading 15psi@4250rpm, 20psi@4500 and 24psi at 5100rpm (all approx). Do you think these can be improved upon with better boost control? What size gate is on there now?

I've got a 5858 and was hoping for better response that that but not so sure now!!

Don't forget it's a 2L SR20 not a RB25

It's making at around 4300rpm which I wouldn't have thought is too bad at all

Yes understand its a SR20 which is what I have.

The top end is sensational and a great result. Don't get me wrong, not meaning to be critical but would have hoped for more action a bit earlier.

In any case a dyno doesn't tell you how a car feels on the road.

Like I said I have a 5858 that is going onto a 2L (maybe a 2.2L) so am really interested in the response and power of these things. The slightly larger turbo should be able to make 350rwk or so. I guess I will find out later on.

I dont think the lag is as bad as it looks. You cant expect too much response from a 2L with a 300+kw turbo man.. For me its really on par and I think its a good result.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...