Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone ,

I was thinking of using a percision 7168 on a built rb25 with auto behind it

Was thinking to use a ported h front cover

What size rear housing should I use (.68 .81)

Has anyone used one of these, what sort of power would I get (18-20 psi for street ,28-35 psi for drags)

Was thinking about e85 but not shore. Closest e85 is about an hour away

Need to decide on turbo to built custom manifold

Any info / advise would be very helpful

Thanks everyone

Hi everyone ,

I was thinking of using a percision 7168 on a built rb25 with auto behind it

Was thinking to use a ported h front cover

What size rear housing should I use (.68 .81)

Has anyone used one of these, what sort of power would I get (18-20 psi for street ,28-35 psi for drags)

Was thinking about e85 but not shore. Closest e85 is about an hour away

Need to decide on turbo to built custom manifold

Any info / advise would be very helpful

Thanks everyone

Argh people really need to mention power targets when saying they want a turbo suggestion. What are your targets? If you are going for 35psi for drags I am assuming a lot, and you're going to need to run E85/C16/Q16/something which can handle the associated pressure.

Please clarify :)

I was thinking about 350 kw for street & for the drags, I'll have to boost the hell out of it & hope for the best

I want to get at least a high to mid 10 in street trim, & for race at least a mid to low 9

I thought I might have to run e85. It will make it easier for racing (load up race tune, put the slicks on & hold on)

I was thinking about 350 kw for street & for the drags, I'll have to boost the hell out of it & hope for the best

I want to get at least a high to mid 10 in street trim, & for race at least a mid to low 9

I thought I might have to run e85. It will make it easier for racing (load up race tune, put the slicks on & hold on)

Not sure how well a RB25 would go with an auto and that large a turbo - you won't be getting full boost until around 6000rpm at a guess, and mid-ish 10s with 350kw would be pretty damn good going too, depending on the chassis.

If you are split between E85 and petrol for practicality, just go an ECU (and tuner :/) which can handle flex fuel tuning. Are you specifically after a Precision turbo? FP have turbos which are a tad insane for sale at the moment which would be pretty mean for aiming for low 9s - again depending on overall setup: http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTFPSUPER94&Category_Code=Turbo-FP

Can be attached to a T3 manifold and make pretty much all of the power, and while it would be hardly a street turbo it will provide a huge amount of power for the spool and is very very cheap (at the moment) for what it is. If you are looking for turbos of this hp area (1000hp+) then you're going to need some serious engine work - headwork inclusive if you hope to get everything out of a turbo of this size on 'up to' 35psi. Otherwise something like a Precision PT6466 or something of the sort wouldn't be a silly choice.

You can't run those times with 350rwkw.... If that's your power target then a 7xxx turbo is way too big

I think the faster times he was aiming for the unnamed "race" power level - 350kw was street mode.

Easily. But if it's hypothetically capable making that power on 20psi through an auto, I doubt it will flow enough to supply enough air to boost the same engine to 35psi :wacko:

For all intents and purposes he's asking for a turbo which would make 600rwkw (give or take) through a manual on E85 from what I can tell

Lol :D Yeah the wording was a bit hard to follow, I had to read the post a couple of times to get (what I think...) he meant.

Yeah making that power "nicely" I think would involve a nice modern 67mm turbo - so yeah, PT6766 and also the Super94 HTA I mentioned (which I have an ulterior motive of just wanting to see how mental they would be on an RB haha) ;)

What would be good for response and power to go for precision turbo?

Looking power terms 450 500hp

Not to laggy as mainly daily street driven.

Don't know much about single setups I've got 33 Gtr stock turbos looking for something different soonish.

Regards

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...