Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My rb25det today while i was driving along was reading fine oil pressure on the factory gauge...about 5 on the cold start...then about 3.5-4 when i was cruising at 100 on the motorway at about 2800rpm...

But on the trip home it was only reading just a tiny bit over 2 on the gauge....no matter how fast i went...and it idles at just under 2...

It seems to be doing this randomly on and off lately...

So my question really is wondering if the oil pump is on its way out? its running a standard rb25det oil pump...its done nearly 140,000ks

I am doing the car serious damage to the bottom end or any other parts starving it of oil driving it like this arent i? is there any method of checking that its the oil pump or to check what it is causing this?

Thanks guys...any help would be appreciated..and yes i did search

Does the light come on? if that comes on you really have to worry.. otherwise, the gauges/sender are notorious for being dodgy.

Get a quality electric oil pressure gauge and then you will know exactly what's going on.

Does the light come on? if that comes on you really have to worry.. otherwise, the gauges/sender are notorious for being dodgy.

Get a quality electric oil pressure gauge and then you will know exactly what's going on.

Na it doesnt come on...going to try get a gauge tomorow...might aswell use this as an excuase to get a oil filter relocation kit while im at it :)

Mine has done this as well, but I didn't care because I had an AM gauge that told me OP was OK. And strangely enough, the factory oil pressure gauge eventually came good and han't done it again [probably killed it by saying this out loud now...damn].

Does the light come on? if that comes on you really have to worry.. otherwise, the gauges/sender are notorious for being dodgy.

Get a quality electric oil pressure gauge and then you will know exactly what's going on.

That said, by the time the light is on, the damage is done. It needs nearly no pressure for the light to come on.

You have done the right thing OP, keep an eye on it. But i reckon a mechanical gauge will show its just a faulty sender

Please don't suggest he use a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Even a cheap electric gauge is far superior than running a capillary full of oil into your cabin.

Whatever floats his boat I guess. Mech/Elec. Still involves dicking around with lines and or wires.

Maybe he likes oil sprayed on his interior :cool:

Actually ther ones that you used to be able to get that were oil filled behind the viewing glass = so the gauge range and needle is swimming in oil - always looked very trick. But yeah electronic these days is the go, no charisma, but no oil over the carpet either.

Actually ther ones that you used to be able to get that were oil filled behind the viewing glass = so the gauge range and needle is swimming in oil - always looked very trick. But yeah electronic these days is the go, no charisma, but no oil over the carpet either.

They weren't exactly oil filled, but some sort of silicon fluid, the point was to dampen any needle fluctuations so as to give a more accurate reading.

If yours hovers around 2-4 while driving warm..im sure thats normaly what it should be,

Mine wasnt going over 2 while cruising on the motorway or watever revs i gave it, but this chops and changes everytime so ill post a reply when i get my oil pressure gauge..as soon as money permits!

Btw i would be interested to know if the oil light does come on if a pump is stuffed or stuffing up...not if your engine has no oil haha

Does the light come on? if that comes on you really have to worry.. otherwise, the gauges/sender are notorious for being dodgy.

Get a quality electric oil pressure gauge and then you will know exactly what's going on.

QFT!

Btw i would be interested to know if the oil light does come on if a pump is stuffed or stuffing up...not if your engine has no oil haha

The light comes on when there is no oil pressure (or very very low) so it will come on when you have no oil OR if your pump shits itself :laugh:

The standard nissan oil pressure recommendations can be found on this site, just do a search. Either way, the standard acceptable figures are lower then what 99% of skyline guages show

  • 4 weeks later...

I'm having a similar problem, my car has 150,000 and each day the car is running less pressure (went from 3.5 to 2 to 1.5 and this morning i noticed it on 1) I'm pretty concerned about something damaging like oil pump especially since the high km's.

I read above that its probably the gauge but will the gauge still read okay only lower? When i boost it moves up to 4 on the gauge but on idle or cruise it will drop again.

on light cruise / driving at 100km/h i would expect 2 kgcm2 oil pressure

my 220,000 rb25 with old oil in it has this pressure and its reasonble

when cold it will peak past 4kgcm2 and slowly decay to 2 when warm

1 kgcm2 at idle is too low

if oil pressure is critically low, oil pressure idiot light comes on

if this comes on during heavy load id say your engine is toast

if it comes on at idle, check the guage, and try an external tester/reader/mechanic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...