Jump to content
SAU Community

Low Oil Pressure While Driving Rb25det

R33 0wnerrr
 Share

Recommended Posts

R33 0wnerrr Enthusiast

R33 0wnerrr

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

My rb25det today while i was driving along was reading fine oil pressure on the factory gauge...about 5 on the cold start...then about 3.5-4 when i was cruising at 100 on the motorway at about 2800rpm...

But on the trip home it was only reading just a tiny bit over 2 on the gauge....no matter how fast i went...and it idles at just under 2...

It seems to be doing this randomly on and off lately...

So my question really is wondering if the oil pump is on its way out? its running a standard rb25det oil pump...its done nearly 140,000ks

I am doing the car serious damage to the bottom end or any other parts starving it of oil driving it like this arent i? is there any method of checking that its the oil pump or to check what it is causing this?

Thanks guys...any help would be appreciated..and yes i did search

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Does the light come on? if that comes on you really have to worry.. otherwise, the gauges/sender are notorious for being dodgy.

Get a quality electric oil pressure gauge and then you will know exactly what's going on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R33 0wnerrr Enthusiast

R33 0wnerrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Does the light come on? if that comes on you really have to worry.. otherwise, the gauges/sender are notorious for being dodgy.

Get a quality electric oil pressure gauge and then you will know exactly what's going on.

Na it doesnt come on...going to try get a gauge tomorow...might aswell use this as an excuase to get a oil filter relocation kit while im at it :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Mine has done this as well, but I didn't care because I had an AM gauge that told me OP was OK. And strangely enough, the factory oil pressure gauge eventually came good and han't done it again [probably killed it by saying this out loud now...damn].

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
Posted
Does the light come on? if that comes on you really have to worry.. otherwise, the gauges/sender are notorious for being dodgy.

Get a quality electric oil pressure gauge and then you will know exactly what's going on.

That said, by the time the light is on, the damage is done. It needs nearly no pressure for the light to come on.

You have done the right thing OP, keep an eye on it. But i reckon a mechanical gauge will show its just a faulty sender

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Please don't suggest he use a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Even a cheap electric gauge is far superior than running a capillary full of oil into your cabin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
Posted
Please don't suggest he use a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Even a cheap electric gauge is far superior than running a capillary full of oil into your cabin.

Whatever floats his boat I guess. Mech/Elec. Still involves dicking around with lines and or wires.

Maybe he likes oil sprayed on his interior :cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Actually ther ones that you used to be able to get that were oil filled behind the viewing glass = so the gauge range and needle is swimming in oil - always looked very trick. But yeah electronic these days is the go, no charisma, but no oil over the carpet either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
Actually ther ones that you used to be able to get that were oil filled behind the viewing glass = so the gauge range and needle is swimming in oil - always looked very trick. But yeah electronic these days is the go, no charisma, but no oil over the carpet either.

They weren't exactly oil filled, but some sort of silicon fluid, the point was to dampen any needle fluctuations so as to give a more accurate reading.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R33 0wnerrr Enthusiast

R33 0wnerrr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If yours hovers around 2-4 while driving warm..im sure thats normaly what it should be,

Mine wasnt going over 2 while cruising on the motorway or watever revs i gave it, but this chops and changes everytime so ill post a reply when i get my oil pressure gauge..as soon as money permits!

Btw i would be interested to know if the oil light does come on if a pump is stuffed or stuffing up...not if your engine has no oil haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Wheezy Mentor

Wheezy

Posted
Posted
Does the light come on? if that comes on you really have to worry.. otherwise, the gauges/sender are notorious for being dodgy.

Get a quality electric oil pressure gauge and then you will know exactly what's going on.

QFT!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
Posted
Btw i would be interested to know if the oil light does come on if a pump is stuffed or stuffing up...not if your engine has no oil haha

The light comes on when there is no oil pressure (or very very low) so it will come on when you have no oil OR if your pump shits itself :laugh:

The standard nissan oil pressure recommendations can be found on this site, just do a search. Either way, the standard acceptable figures are lower then what 99% of skyline guages show

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
cr4ig0 Contributor

cr4ig0

Posted
Posted

I'm having a similar problem, my car has 150,000 and each day the car is running less pressure (went from 3.5 to 2 to 1.5 and this morning i noticed it on 1) I'm pretty concerned about something damaging like oil pump especially since the high km's.

I read above that its probably the gauge but will the gauge still read okay only lower? When i boost it moves up to 4 on the gauge but on idle or cruise it will drop again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

on light cruise / driving at 100km/h i would expect 2 kgcm2 oil pressure

my 220,000 rb25 with old oil in it has this pressure and its reasonble

when cold it will peak past 4kgcm2 and slowly decay to 2 when warm

1 kgcm2 at idle is too low

if oil pressure is critically low, oil pressure idiot light comes on

if this comes on during heavy load id say your engine is toast

if it comes on at idle, check the guage, and try an external tester/reader/mechanic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HYBRID VL
      V37 Alarm settings and what the buttons do.

      By HYBRID VL · Posted

      I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • GTSBoy
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • Ghosty033
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By Ghosty033 · Posted

      curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...