Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was over at a mates place this week and we were just having a look around his shed.....(where my motor is being stored atm)....and his son has had some mates around so they have taken the cover off...and wasps have built some pretty little mud castles in the intake ports.....(motor has no manifolds on it)

What can i do...

Head off job? or....

(deep sigh)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/
Share on other sites

Turnthe engine on its side on an engine stand, one cylinder at a time turn engine until cylinder is in compression stroke (vavles closed) break away nests, air blower, hope for the best.

One of those fibre optic cameras would handy be handy aswel

Edited by aleks
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5165491
Share on other sites

Leave wasps alone. They get very narky when you disturb their nest or spray insect spray in their general direction - particularly European wasps. Unlike bees, they can sting multiple times (they don't lose their stinger).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5165499
Share on other sites

If they have gone up the exhaust they may have nested inside the cylinder, the one with the valve open. I worked on a pump motor from a farm with wasps nesting like this and it wasn't worth rebuilding. The clay gets into everything, little buggers.

Definitely need to pull the head off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5165767
Share on other sites

Ok i went to the head shop today (super flow heads), I was told if i can give it to him with no cams in it. Then to have it acid dipped, new seals, and machined, would cost me between 300-400 dollars.

Does this seem about right?

So this leads me to this, would i have much problems pulling out the cams, and then re installing them again (or maybe aftermarket 256's or something...).

I can get a genuine nissan vrs kit, for approx. $380, so i would provide the seals, (this should bring the cost down a tad).

And would i really need to machining?

I have no idea tbh when it comes to doing any work on the heads this will be the first time i've taken one off and put it back on myself so yeah...dun wanna mess it up..

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5166809
Share on other sites

Price sounds good.

And the valve stem seals are worth nothing really, so won't be a huge saving there.

I payed $550 for mine with a crack and pressure test.

The machine they normally do is just a tidy up (skim the surface and enough to make sure valves seal properly)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5166883
Share on other sites

May as well keep it all in this thread, down the track the motor will probably have between 15-18psi getting pushed around it, would you guys reccomend using a metal head gasket? I had a quick look around the site, and from what i can tell the cometic head gaskets and the such wont sell properly unless i have both surfaces perfectly true...would this be the case if i wanted to run any sort of metal gasket, so machining would be in order for both the head and block?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315310-wasp-nests-ino/#findComment-5167119
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...