Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just love the lines on the car, so flowing.

Oh so people do actually talk on here? For a while there I thought everyone was blind and no one comments on anything :)

wait till you hear all the crap i had to go through in selling my bro in law's alfa romeo, you'd think twice before even wanting this...

at the moment we are spending about $3400 to get the $6000 worth car back to RWC standard.

beauty is only skin deep apparently is a true case.

Hahaha...

I love how the posts so far seem to emphasise the two extremes of a dichotomy lol

I used to own a new Alfetta GTV manual of 1979.

Looks? It was sex-on-wheels. It turned heads until one man walked into a light pole lol

Resale? Good $$ so long as I didn't keep it too long - and had it "Endrust"-ed

Problems? Oil leaks, exhaust manifold came off in the middle of Crows Nest, broken A/C hose on the M4.

Resale Issues? It took ages to sell the thing - because everyone wanted red or silver. Mine was blue.

I used to own a used Alfa Romeo 164Quadrifogglio manual of 1989.

Problems? Interior plastics kept cracking, rear boot hinge started to poke through the quarter panel wtf, huge torque steer, cornered like a dog until I had a front strut brace fabricated, and then the strut towers started to crack.

Resale? I only lost $2K depreciation over 2 yrs - but I sold at the right time.

This new Pininfarina design I think will be a 'Love-or-Hate' issue.

Me? I looooooove it! I like the mean look at the front where the signature triangle and lights are recessed a bit like the BMW M1 concept.

Buy it? I'd only think of it as a 1 yr old purchase (after depreciation) and only as a 3rd car (which is sheer indulgence) and only if it had zero major faults. I'm past it as far as putting up with Alfa idiosyncrasies any more. I still get repetitive dreams of checking under the GTV for oil leaks after arriving home lol.

BTW how do you pronounce 2uettottanta ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...