Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking at buying one of these for my R33 and just thought I'd do some research in the mean time

I have stock turbo at the moment with X-Force exhaust, turbo back. It looks like the dump will fit directly to the back of the RB25 version of the 2835 but thought I'd ask if someon knows for sure first hand

Also I have a front facing plenum setup with a plumback arangement that is a bit different and just wondering about the inlet size of the turbo cause I can quite work out how its set up and what size it is

At the moment I have a 45 degree silicon bend coming off my turbo (2.5 inch) that goes to my intake pipe which expands to 3 inch before the AFM. The pipe has been customised to suit the stock rocker cover breater and have a plumback BOV ported into it.

Any help, pictures etc would be much appreciated :)

Thanks

Callan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316523-info-on-hks-gt2835-pro-s-turbo-kit/
Share on other sites

yeh? I was just hoping i could use my existing dump but oh well.

Think im gonna have to try and work out what to do with the intake pipe when i get the turbo but yeah think its just gonna be a bit of mucking around

How did you rate difficulty/problems with installation? Anything else I should know?

Thanks guys

A new intake pipe shouldn't be much of a worry.

The only other thing is the dump position, might not be exactly the same meaning a new pipe to the CAT...

But otherwise nothing a exhaust shop can't do (if you can't), and same for the intake piping really :yes:

Just sell the old dump - more cash in your pocket!

Pro S kit comes with an intake pipe too.

The dump will fit up perfectly with a stock type front pipe, When i helped a mate fit his he had a second hand trust dump which fit fine

Installation is a breeze. The hardest part is getting the water feed behind the head in.

yeah the only problem with the intake pipe provided is my pretty.... i dunno if ud call it complex but yeah its a bit tight, BOV plumback setup with my front facing plenum... Guess ill just see how i go and if i have to get a new pipe made up or get something modded then it shouldnt be to major

thanks guys, now i know the possible problems im up against.

whats the deal with the water feed line? just a bastard of a spot to get to?

200 to 260 is a big jump, though you'd only notice it after like 4500-5krpm, but it really must have felt like you were being glued to the chair after that :)

I'm curious though, isn't the 2835 a high mount? If so, why would the intake change? I mean, the piping won't match exactly, but it isn't like there is a lack of room in that part of the engine bay.

plus my stock turbo only has a 2 inch (or is it 2.5"?) inlet so my intake pipe is much smaller but also custom made to suit my setup so the hks item will have to be modded or ill have to change it with another custom one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...