Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had awesome racing pedals in my last car, they were made specifically for the car and actually made a difference: They felt much better and I always noticed them (they looked great) on entering the car too which was nice.

I am after some racing pedals for my R32 GT-R. Any ideas? I have done asearch but couldn't find anything. And when I check out sites online they seem to sell a lot of different kinds of pedals but none of them sem to be specifically for the Skyline. Will all of these (Sparco, momo etc...) fit easily?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31750-the-best-racing-pedals/
Share on other sites

Well, I find the rubber ones TOO grippy at times (ie: you can't really re-position your foot on a pedal unless you raise it off the pedal 1st). I had aluminium ones with raised steel studs (I think they were illegal actually as there was no rubber on them at all) and they were great.

i also have razo metal ones, and think they r great (alittle close together gas and brake alittle close but u get use 2 it)

hehehe no such thing as too close, there's plenty of room down there for big feet....you just need to get used to it

Contary the best racing pedals are no pedals at all.

Anything that comes between your foot and the actual factory pedal further reduces feel.

Its the reason why racing shoes are made with thin soles so as to enhance feel.

So after market pedal caps (i call them those becos thats what they are...they do not actually replace the factory pedals) are actually a step back.

If pedal placement is a problem (i.e u find it hard to heel toe because the pedals are too far apart) then u can try bending the pedal stem to get the pedals to sit at the correct height and position you desire

usuckpoo: fair call. But the surface of the pedal does make a difference in feel. Steel/aluminium feels different through shoes than rubber does. And perhaps one of the major difference is visual appeal. Which IS important to some of us. As I mentioned above, when I used to hop in the Alfa, with my black Novitec pedals from Germany... I'd look at them upon entry.. they made me smile.

Ive got a metal studded brake pedal and some dodgy type r accelerator pedal. Its actually ok as it sits close to the brake, making it easy to do that cool heel and toe thingo, allbeit poorly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...