Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i currently have a r33 gts t and am selling it to buy a gtr r33 v spec what are these like ? reliability , as an everyday driver ? i really like them just wanting to know some info on them before i buy one

cheers

regaurds dan !

There's a lot of info on this if you do a search (mostly on comparison of 32/33gtr or 33gtr to 34gtt etc).

Anyway like any other imports, so long as you dont land yourself with a lemon, everything would be the same as any twin turbo cars. Personally I wouldnt bother much with cars below 23-25k because chance of getting a really good one is very low (not saying you shouldnt give them a go but the chances would be lower).

There's plenty of 33gtrs in the market now but the price vary significantly (from as low as 18k? to 30k+). Theres a reason for this (either mods or condition of car). Test drive them and get them checked professionally.

The 33gtr is my only car and dont see any issue with them being a daily. I havent done much to mine but so far, it hasnt given me any problem at all (own it for slightly more than 1year).

you own a 33gtst. your looking at a 33gtr... they're not THAT different both rb's, both nissans, similar years

so what your asking is, how does one well engineered nissan compare to anoither excellently engineered nissan?

Answer... they're great and very similar, they drive differently, as they have different configurations, and oddly enough, the one with more complex parts is a little more expensive to maintain.

what should i look for when buying one has anyone seen the one on carsales for 25 k the one with harliquin paint cant spell that but yeah can someone tell me anything bout this has to many mods to explain check it out !!! gtr http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...6&silo=1011

It's certainly worth a look Dan.

Take along someone that's experienced with the RB26DETT and listen carefully as he talks to the engine builder and asks Qs

And then your mechanic friend can tick things off his list re: suspension/engine/brakes/drivetrain. He can order a compression test on cylinders.

You can check out history.

See whether or not the RTA has an odometer reading (from past registrations) that is higher or lower that the 36xxxkms indicated and correspond all this data with wear and tear on carpet, passenger seat bolster, steering wheel.

Cross-Check the VIN with the thread on SAU "VINs Fasted" to see where that car came from in Japan. Check for rust if from north.

The car has been repainted in Midnight Purple III from what I can see. It looks like an early '96 (without the passenger airbag).

I stand corrected though.

I disagree with some of the posts above.

Don't think that just because a car has a low price that it is a lemon. The prices can be low for at least two totally different reasons. Either the car is a lemon, or the owner has had it for sale for a long time and has had very few offers. The market for imports has been depressed for the last two years; so prices have come down a lot on nearly all imports. There just aren't enough buyers out there. This means that a lot of the cheaper cars are actually good cars, and have probably been advertised for 6-12 months and have not been sold yet.

So, just find out that you think you like and take it to a good workshop (there's a few listed on SAU) and get it checked out. After that get it checked by the RTA.

The reality is that most imports would have been in an accident at some point, and most imports (if not all) have done many more km's than the odometer suggests. As long as any repairs have been done properly, you should be fine. Remember that it's a buyers market now (and has been for some time) so if you're smart about it, you can get a very good car for a very good price.

As for R33 GTR's, they're good cars IMO. With a few suspension tweaks they can handle VERY well, and the brakes are decent. They're very laggy though, and they're a bit more front heavy than the non-GTR skylines, so you'll have to get used to that. Overall they're an impressive car and are great bang for your bucks.

Edited by ras1983

I think as Messiah and Terry and the others have said it's going to be a pretty similar experience to your current GTS-t but with notably better looks, better power, better handling, slightly costlier insurance, slightly costlier maintenance.

The 33R will feel a little heavier and less nimble than a 32R which you could get for similar money (it also has a longer wheelbase), but as compared to just a normal FR, I just love the way the GTR exits corners. It really does act like a rear driver on turn-in, with just a little bit of help from the front end powering out of corners, without it scrubbing wide with 4WD understeer.

Just get any prospective purchases checked out properly as there is a lot of crap out there.

I disagree with some of the posts above.

Don't think that just because a car has a low price that it is a lemon. The prices can be low for at least two totally different reasons. Either the car is a lemon, or the owner has had it for sale for a long time and has had very few offers. The market for imports has been depressed for the last two years; so prices have come down a lot on nearly all imports. There just aren't enough buyers out there. This means that a lot of the cheaper cars are actually good cars, and have probably been advertised for 6-12 months and have not been sold yet.

So, just find out that you think you like and take it to a good workshop (there's a few listed on SAU) and get it checked out. After that get it checked by the RTA.

The reality is that most imports would have been in an accident at some point, and most imports (if not all) have done many more km's than the odometer suggests. As long as any repairs have been done properly, you should be fine. Remember that it's a buyers market now (and has been for some time) so if you're smart about it, you can get a very good car for a very good price.

As for R33 GTR's, they're good cars IMO. With a few suspension tweaks they can handle VERY well, and the brakes are decent. They're very laggy though, and they're a bit more front heavy than the non-GTR skylines, so you'll have to get used to that. Overall they're an impressive car and are great bang for your bucks.

Mate, I agree with everything you said but please read our comments properly as we did not suggest all 33gtrs below certain value (and at the time I was buying is around 25k, 1yr+ ago) are lemon but chances of getting a lemon is higher (and a lot of cases, owners of those cars dont know anything about the car and are cutting corners). I'm saying that because when I was hunting for mine, I had a look at 5 cars in QLD and out of the 5, 3 are crap (condition not very good or owner doesnt know anything about the car from talking to them), 1 is so-so and the other one is the one I got.

Like Terry said, do all the checks you need and talk to the owner. Normally you'll be able to pick up useful info by just speaking with them.

what should i look for when buying one has anyone seen the one on carsales for 25 k the one with harliquin paint cant spell that but yeah can someone tell me anything bout this has to many mods to explain check it out !!! gtr http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...6&silo=1011

I've seen that on carsale before and it does look really good for someone that wants all work done. I'd definitely give that a go.

Mate, I agree with everything you said but please read our comments properly as we did not suggest all 33gtrs below certain value (and at the time I was buying is around 25k, 1yr+ ago) are lemon but chances of getting a lemon is higher (and a lot of cases, owners of those cars dont know anything about the car and are cutting corners). I'm saying that because when I was hunting for mine, I had a look at 5 cars in QLD and out of the 5, 3 are crap (condition not very good or owner doesnt know anything about the car from talking to them), 1 is so-so and the other one is the one I got.

...

Apologies on my end, I misread your post. For some reason I thought it was another one of those "you get what you pay for" posts that were trying to justify sky high prices for cars.

what should i look for when buying one has anyone seen the one on carsales for 25 k the one with harliquin paint cant spell that but yeah can someone tell me anything bout this has to many mods to explain check it out !!! gtr http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...6&silo=1011

also keep in mind the rego sticker is from 2008 in the photo so its quite a old photo of the car (could be alittle more worn now-a-days), the dyno sheet is not in his name (the car might have been in afew hands so far) don't get me wrong, neither factor could be of any relevance to the car's condition, im just saying.

*realisation moment: qld rego colours differ from nsw :)

I looked at a 1995 R33 GTR V-Spec yesterday for $22,000. It seems to be in magnificent condition with 82,000km's on the clock. The chassis feels tight, suspension is good, engine is responsive and the panel+paint & interior is all in pretty darn good condition. Just need to get it compression tested and checked out.

So it is possible to find a good one at a low price :happy:

Apologies on my end, I misread your post. For some reason I thought it was another one of those "you get what you pay for" posts that were trying to justify sky high prices for cars.

You're alright mate. We're all just trying to help. The price you pay also depends on whats on the market and how desperately you wanted the car. If you're willing to wait, something good will come along. But if you want something now, just gotta pick something out there and work on your budget.

Its a bit like buying a quick pick ticket as oppose to those system ones if you know what I mean... Hahaha.

I looked at a 1995 R33 GTR V-Spec yesterday for $22,000. It seems to be in magnificent condition with 82,000km's on the clock. The chassis feels tight, suspension is good, engine is responsive and the panel+paint & interior is all in pretty darn good condition. Just need to get it compression tested and checked out.

So it is possible to find a good one at a low price :happy:

Try to get one thats got turbo done (not ceramic ones) if possible unless you want a dead stock car. This is the advise I gave to everyone thats looking for a GTR. I'm glad I got the N1 because that process is pretty costly (I only learn more about the car after owning one).

Scratch what i said above. That car had weld marks on both the front A-pillars, so it had been in some kind of accident and my guess is that it was rolled.

I have since found a 1996 Series 2 R33 GTR V-Spec in Midnight Purple which is almost stock (only modification is a cat-back exhaust). Panel + paint is pristine, am going to view it under the sun and drive it very soon :(

sorry for jumping but I have a problem and wanted to know about it (I've been trying to find information on concerning if the R33 has a MAP sensor to detect boost. So far we know it has two MAF sensor but is that all it needs. Anyone ????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...