Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, i got to watch my car on the dyno the other day and noticed it had heaps of air/white smoke coming out the cam covers breather hole as i had the catch can setup disconnected, it started at 3000 as it started to make boost and by 7000 it was a pretty substantial plume of smoke/air, alot more smoke than i would of expected for blow by..

The engine has done roughly 1300kms, used 9:1 cp pistons and rings, i compression tested it the other day when it was cold, since the car is missing a radiator atm and got roughly 158-160 for pistons 3-6 and 155 for 1 and 2, wont be able to compression test it warm until i get my new radiator.. should i get a leak down test done as well or is this usual for a forged engine and im just being a bit paranoid?

Cheers

Jarrod

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317913-concerned-with-new-engine-on-dyno/
Share on other sites

i built it myself, first time i have attempted anything like this, made harder by the choice to ceramic coat everything

Elite Racing:

Cheers for the advice, i just wasnt expecting it to breathe so much.. almost looked like more air was coming out the breather than the exhaust

Jarrod

i built it myself, first time i have attempted anything like this, made harder by the choice to ceramic coat everything

Elite Racing:

Cheers for the advice, i just wasnt expecting it to breathe so much.. almost looked like more air was coming out the breather than the exhaust

Jarrod

Yeah a lot of people freak out when they see it. It's gas fumes created by the approx 10%-15% of leakdown that every engine has. Imagine the cylinder pressure once you throw in 15 to 20 psi of boost. On a 100psi regulated leakdown test you would see a value of approx 15 psi escaping. When you are cramming boost in and combustion pressure also, that increases to around 300psi cylinder pressure or there abouts possibly more. So you can have around 40-60 psi of pressure bypass the rings but not constantly. It's just little amounts as the combustion and stroke is so fast.

Add 6 cylinders all doing the same thing and it's almost like a mini steam train if you leave the breathers off.

With compression of 160psi on all 6, it sounds like you did a decent job of the build.

It's when it starts blowing raw oil out that you need to be concerned.

My did the same thing, even blew a bit of oil out of the catch can, that was even after running the engine in after 5000k's. Found that after the motor ran had done approx 7k, the breathing stopped. On the other hand, a mates 32 GTR does the same thing and has done more k's then I have and he's using CP pistons and rings like you. I had read somewhere that the CP rings had dramas with sealing properly and scoring the bore, but I think they fixed that problem. See how it goes with a few more k's on the engine, it might settle down.

Elite Racing:

thanks alot for that elite, thats a real load of my mind, my main concern was that i had done something wrong or it was something out of the ordinary, a mini steam engine is definitely the right description for it.

116.hks:

Yeh i had heard that as well and that they had fixed it as i was considering sticking in ACL rings, hopefully it seals up a bit better as it clocks up more kms.

Cran:

haha jason, ill make it there oneday, just got to figure out why the torque was dropping off earlier now.. which i think is due to the cams maybe being advanced, hopefully the radiator arrives next week sometime and the car will have the new exhaust made up.. and ill be able to take you for a spin

Jarrod

Status: id say it was steam.. more so than smoke.. i just remember thinking it looks alot like a kettle.. my piston to bore clearance was 3.5 thou from the pistons size before they were ceramic coated, the ceramic shop said because the pistons were getting ceramic coated they wouldn't expand as much. So the dry film lubrication layers thickness wouldn't effect the piston to bore clearance.. hard to say exactly what the clearances were without buying a micrometer and checking them myself, which i was considering, the bore was bored out 1 thou extra than the specs since the machine shop measured them and claimed the pistons were all 1 thou bigger, which i had double checked by a engineering shop.. i did roughly check the clearances with a feeler gage, but considering the bore and pistons are both round n they feeler gages dont like to bend it isnt very accurate, off memory (which isnt very good) i managed to get the 1.5 thou size in, but the 2 thou clearance was extremely tight..

Jarrod

when i was looking at r32 gtrs begining of the year, i had this white one idling, i opened the oil filler cap on the engine, it was "choofing" masses of white misty air, it was pretty high pressured too the smoke was almost going up to the bonnet !

what does this exactly mean? i always thought it was blow by/ alot of blow by, so im assuming worn rings? low compression ?

What does it smell like? If the rings aren't sealing correctly it will have that combustion/oily smell. Makes ya feel a bit sick in the gut after a while. From what I've seen and heard, it only has happen to motors running CP piston and ring combo. Just keep an eye on it mate, if it does stop with more k's, get it checked.

i didn't end up sticking in a oil restrictor as i did the internal vct oil feed where it gets its oil feed from the oil gallery, i assumed once the vct turns off after 4k that the oil would also be draining from the vct oil return line, i did install the rear oil drain kit and drilled the oil returns out larger in the head, which seems to be adequate enough

Cheers for all the input guys, ill monitor if it changes over the next few 1000kms and see if its losing any oil

Jarrod

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...