Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WR35TMVS has a label... this is truly fascinating but what does it have to do with the WR35TM jerking my car around? :(

Mate, do us all a favour and deal with the maker of the product directly instead of badmouthing their product on a public forum? Companies like these trade on reputation and it would be a shame to cause trouble for him if the fault is not theirs :(

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mate, do us all a favour and deal with the maker of the product directly instead of badmouthing their product on a public forum? Companies like these trade on reputation and it would be a shame to cause trouble for him if the fault is not theirs :)

I certainly don't condone badmouthing anyone who makes a positive contribution to our automotive passion. Martin has certainly been a great source of knowledge. But we do need to help each other to iron out any teething problems with the car, especially with mods. Modifying cars is not a perfect science, a fair bit of trial and error is involved.

Martin, let us know if you find a solution that works. White 35 also has the problem - his car actually does it worse than mine. In our cases the car was perfect before we used the Willall oil, but maybe the only way to really link the oil and the problem, is to change the oil back to Nissan, and see if the problem clears up. I'll do this when I'm next due for oil - unless someone else can do it before then.

Cheers

I know martins tranny oil is good but if you are going to change out to see if it solves the problem don't waste your money on the nissan oil - try the pentosin ffl4 product (buy it from BMW - get the 20L container).

search for the pentosin thread I posted a while back fro the product details you will need to quote to BMW. about $18-20 per litre.

once you have trialled this oil and assessed whether the problem is still occurring you can change back to the Willall fluid without having wasted your money on OEM fluids.

Mate, do us all a favour and deal with the maker of the product directly instead of badmouthing their product on a public forum? Companies like these trade on reputation and it would be a shame to cause trouble for him if the fault is not theirs :)

I am not your mate, mate! If you are looking for a forum where only uncritical praise by a society of mutual admiration is lavished on every mod offered on the market, look elsewhere.

Nobody is bad mouthing anybody here. If sometihing does not work as advertised, and it cost over $1200 to make a perfectly good car drive like a dog, nobody is going to keep quiet.

Going back to the manufacturer would not solve anything and help anybody else with the same problem. Martin is a big boy and does not need apologists like you to prop him up.

As it turns out, I am working with Willall on a solution and will post results when the trial is finished and a final conclusion can be reached on what TF is best for the R35.

You can fill your R33 with canola oil for all I care. :D

I am not your mate, mate! If you are looking for a forum where only uncritical praise by a society of mutual admiration is lavished on every mod offered on the market, look elsewhere.

Nobody is bad mouthing anybody here. If sometihing does not work as advertised, and it cost over $1200 to make a perfectly good car drive like a dog, nobody is going to keep quiet.

Going back to the manufacturer would not solve anything and help anybody else with the same problem. Martin is a big boy and does not need apologists like you to prop him up.

As it turns out, I am working with Willall on a solution and will post results when the trial is finished and a final conclusion can be reached on what TF is best for the R35.

You can fill your R33 with canola oil for all I care. :D

Well I reckon you're being a bit sensationalist... In these days of increasing technological complexity its fairly easy to get some settings wrong and ruin everything. Even in a $150k supercar. All I'm saying is give the guy a chance to help you before you go around telling everyone that his product is rubbish! But whatevs, you'll work it out.

Now see I wouldnt fill the car with canola oil because after having read the label I'd be able to see that its not for cars :)

Well I reckon you're being a bit sensationalist... In these days of increasing technological complexity its fairly easy to get some settings wrong and ruin everything. Even in a $150k supercar. All I'm saying is give the guy a chance to help you before you go around telling everyone that his product is rubbish! But whatevs, you'll work it out.

Now see I wouldnt fill the car with canola oil because after having read the label I'd be able to see that its not for cars :)

If you drove my car earlier, you would not say I was being sensationalist. My tech said it was the worst he had experienced. As far as the complexity is concerned, that is a fair comment.

However, why should any customer provide the manufacturer of mods with free R&D? I already swapped the oil twice, plus spent the time with the tech playing with his computer while I drove my car around. So did 09GTR and others. The techs charge me, not the TF supplier, $300 per hour +GST every time they touch my car. Add the cost of the TF and we are coming close to $1600. And that is not counting my time...I work too!

Swapping the TF grade at no charge or providing free advice on the phone is appreciated but in the end I have to pay for all those experiments to find the correct balance between viscosity and tranny/ clutch settings. Still, hang the expense, as long as I get my car back to a reasonably smooth launch, I will be happy. That's the kind of guy I am, "Mr Reasonable"... :D

Martin certainly tries hard to please his customers. Some things are just beyond his control.

I dont understand why after so many repeated attempts to inform them of your installer of the oil that this can not be made public or be information provided as asked.

Even under standard warranty clauses this is vital information.

Nissan has provided dedicated service centers to deal especially with this car and it is obvious that the installer does not want to be known, or you dont want them to be known. If in Martins position i would be hesitant also to accept what is simply being said without the information that was asked in close to the first response and subsequent responses about who the installer was.

After providing the information about the fluid needing to be shaken prior to him being able to contact the installer this could mean that the chain of evidence may very well be already corrupted. In the sense that the installer could now simply say he did shake it when in fact he may not have.

(The only informative text to identify the possible installer was something about Stewart's office)

It is pretty common knowledge that after the installation of every performance product something else is required to be changed to suit it.

Oil is a critical part of the gearboxes operation and if it is used to a different oil, obviously it would be a good thing to look into checking. I am surprised that anyone willing to touch the car did not run this past you given the sort of car that it is.

I think i am pointing out a few facts most are thinking.

I have read a lot on the standard oils in the colder parts causing the same issue as has already been pointed out. Which means it is not a Willall only problem, its across the board.

Who knows, you may have very well changed at a time (Winter) where the weather changes.

I am not saying that this is the issue here, but given the complexity of these cars, is it naive to maybe think it could be a possibility?

It seems like Willall want to help in any way they can though instead of seeking a resolution that would inform others when it was offered, the bashing continued. It is not about advising on a product issue as it happens with normal oil. In your case it just happen to start when you changed.

Given your attitude towards spending money for a service you have not received, if Nissan couldn't fix it, why did you pay them?

Just curious.

I dont understand why after so many repeated attempts to inform them of your installer of the oil that this can not be made public or be information provided as asked.

Even under standard warranty clauses this is vital information.

Nissan has provided dedicated service centers to deal especially with this car and it is obvious that the installer does not want to be known, or you dont want them to be known. If in Martins position i would be hesitant also to accept what is simply being said without the information that was asked in close to the first response and subsequent responses about who the installer was.

After providing the information about the fluid needing to be shaken prior to him being able to contact the installer this could mean that the chain of evidence may very well be already corrupted. In the sense that the installer could now simply say he did shake it when in fact he may not have.

(The only informative text to identify the possible installer was something about Stewart's office)

It is pretty common knowledge that after the installation of every performance product something else is required to be changed to suit it.

Oil is a critical part of the gearboxes operation and if it is used to a different oil, obviously it would be a good thing to look into checking. I am surprised that anyone willing to touch the car did not run this past you given the sort of car that it is.

I think i am pointing out a few facts most are thinking.

I have read a lot on the standard oils in the colder parts causing the same issue as has already been pointed out. Which means it is not a Willall only problem, its across the board.

Who knows, you may have very well changed at a time (Winter) where the weather changes.

I am not saying that this is the issue here, but given the complexity of these cars, is it naive to maybe think it could be a possibility?

It seems like Willall want to help in any way they can though instead of seeking a resolution that would inform others when it was offered, the bashing continued. It is not about advising on a product issue as it happens with normal oil. In your case it just happen to start when you changed.

Given your attitude towards spending money for a service you have not received, if Nissan couldn't fix it, why did you pay them?

Just curious.

If you read my previous posts you would see that Martin and I are already working on a solution together with the "installer". There is no secrecy between me and Martin, Thank you for your concerns.

As soon as we work out the best settings we will post.

If you read my previous posts you would see that Martin and I are already working on a solution together with the "installer". There is no secrecy between me and Martin, Thank you for your concerns.

As soon as we work out the best settings we will post.

. . . well that is the start of a satisfactory outcome.

Whilst as a member of this forum you are entitled to say what is your concern, the "TONE" of your initial posts is what has concerned me about this thread.

A more open "what could I have done wrong" or "Martin, have you a dud batch" or "can you analyse your retained batch sample Martin" or "give me a tip" or anything along those lines using that tone may have made for a better. positive and more informative thread!

I for one really hope that Martin. . . and his team. . . and I stress his team, as there are some very sharp operators at Willall Engineering - reach a satisfactory result for you!

. . . Australia need companies like Willall to keep moving in a positive manner and whilst we have not used any Willall products ourselves yet. . . I for one are very proud to have the Willall Team in our backyard . . so to speak!

On a positive note GTRicer. . . please keep moving forward with Martin and we will all benifit from this thread from this point onwards!

Guess you decided to pass your mechanical woes to someone else - just saw your car for sale GT-Ricer - 156K. RPP-555, that's your isn't it. Never been tracked :cheers:

Wow..you have outed me! :cool:

What mechanical woes? The problem has been resolved and there were never any mechanical woes with the actual car, just wrong transmission oil which has been swapped.

Before you cast aspersions on others, learn to read English carefully: I wrote "Never raced Bridgestone Tyres..." I have not claimed the car was never on the track. I have a second set of wheels and tyres for that very purpose and the ones I am selling the car with have never been raced or on the track and only saw street use!

The car was never raced indeed but has been to two Burrows Drive days, which I am pretty confident the likes of you will never get invited to. :sweat:

What is your point? Are you suggesting that I am dishonest? Shame on you.

Edited by GT-Ricer
It really is your car for sale.

I just wonder how can you even dare to say your car is "the best GT-R for sale" after this topic here. Good luck with the sale......not.

Ouch..that hurt...not

How dare I? How dare you ?

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and nobody will buy this car without inspecting it and checking it's history.

This topic was about wrong transmission oil which affected a great car. There was never anything wrong with the car itself!

Are you confused? Have a lie down, you won't buy my car and I would not sell it to you.

It is so sad to see the tall poppy syndrome alive and well and at it's worst.

Edited by GT-Ricer
Ouch..that hurt...not

How dare I? How dare you ?

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and nobody will buy this car without inspecting it and checking it's history.

This topic was about wrong transmission oil which affected a great car. There was never anything wrong with the car itself!

Are you confused? Have a lie down, you won't buy my car and I would not sell it to you.

It is so sad to see the tall poppy syndrome alive and well and at it's worst.

GT Ricer, can you share the solution? I still have the problem. Was it as simple as swapping the oil? If so, what oil did you swap in? Also, why are you selling?

Sorry to hear your Willoil effecting your car drivability that way. I'd just like to say for the record I got willoil trans and diff oil installed 8000 km ago and it's been super smooth sailing since then with increased smoothness when changing gears with only downside being a slightly longer warmup over standard nission oil. With standard clutch settings no special adjustments needed. Martin has always been very professional to deal with and Willall did a superb job of repairing my broken transmission last year. Good luck with your car I hope your able to find a solution to the problem soon. I just wanted to mention my experiences as I've had the opposite experience with this oil.

Sammy

GT Ricer, can you share the solution? I still have the problem. Was it as simple as swapping the oil? If so, what oil did you swap in? Also, why are you selling?

We swapped the TF to Willall Victory Specification ( yes, the "chocolate milk" I mocked needed shaking for 5 minutes LOL) ; clutch settings TP A =0, TP B = +3, CC A =0,

CC B =0. My car again feels pretty much stock , maybe with smoother gear changes, up 1-2-3-4-5-6 and down-5-4-3-2-1.

Launch from stand-still is very good, nice wheelspin, maybe a little bog, but at gentle traffic light take-off, about 80% without a second step, 20% of the time in two short steps.

To refresh my memory I also tested a stock car with stock TF back to back, and my car was smoother.

My buddy did too and he agrees.

When cold, say down to 17C overnight, it still kicks like a mule first thing in reverse or first gear, but by the time the tranny warms up a bit, say 30C+ its OK and smooth.

As far as the sale is concerned, I am still testing the water and have not quite decided what I want to do yet.

I am not what you might call a "motivated seller" and that's why my price is fairly non-negotiable and not a give-away bargain to tempt tyre-kickers.

I am looking at the 911 Turbo or GT3, but to tell you the truth, after washing my GT-R yesterday and taking it for a spin to dry the brakes, I thought I must be raving mad to

even think of getting rid of it! I might need counselling... :banana:

PM me if you want more info.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...