Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Its my birthday soon and my girlfriend has offered to replace my dying front speakers. I'm basically looking for high quality 6.5" speakers with seperate tweaters to put in the front of my Supra. I plan on sound deadening the two doors at the same time, but I'll be running the stock rears and no sub.

Any recommendations as to what I should look for? Going to do a bit of research tonight, but I need to decide tomorrow morning, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318118-quality-splits/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Its my birthday soon and my girlfriend has offered to replace my dying front speakers. I'm basically looking for high quality 6.5" speakers with seperate tweaters to put in the front of my Supra. I plan on sound deadening the two doors at the same time, but I'll be running the stock rears and no sub.

Any recommendations as to what I should look for? Going to do a bit of research tonight, but I need to decide tomorrow morning, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

depends on what you can afford, 50 bucks to 10k a pair price range ????

amplified ? or deck power?

location ? are you installing or pro ?

music you listen too most often ? how loud ? blasting or sane levels ?

what year supra ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318118-quality-splits/#findComment-5201107
Share on other sites

depends on what you can afford, 50 bucks to 10k a pair price range ????

No more than $1000 for the amp and splits, but I'd rather spend less if I can get away with it.

amplified ? or deck power?

Either.

location ? are you installing or pro ?

I'll install it, just going in the front doors.

music you listen too most often ? how loud ? blasting or sane levels ?

Sane with the occasional blast, trance/dance mostly.

what year supra ?

1994.

Sorry, I quickly realised doing my own research all this matters too.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318118-quality-splits/#findComment-5201396
Share on other sites

What ever you do don't go buying without first listening to these...

Soundstream RF-60C Reference 6.5" Component speaker

http://www.ryda.com.au/Soundstream-RF-60C-...nts-p/rf60c.htm

I have a set of these and a set of Focal 165K2Ps except I bought when they where first released and mind you ryda weren't selling em at the time for $1100

originally had focals in the front and when my stock rears went I thought I'd upgrade but the clarity of these were far more superior than the focals just so crisp clear and beautiful sound as well as a solid mid range bass handling I had to relocate the focal to the rear and put these up front.. And they are both running off the same 4 channel amp so power delivery is the same also crank full ball all day these all day with my twin 12" Fusion Jonah Lomus hooked to twin 1250wrms monoblocks to power them an it sounds pure porn... and they don't get drowned out they go all the way and you can hear the crispness even when you body is shaking from the bass nor do they get tired.

Anyways enough ranting good luck with the search...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318118-quality-splits/#findComment-5202650
Share on other sites

What ever you do don't go buying without first listening to these...

Soundstream RF-60C Reference 6.5" Component speaker

http://www.ryda.com.au/Soundstream-RF-60C-...nts-p/rf60c.htm

I have a set of these and a set of Focal 165K2Ps except I bought when they where first released and mind you ryda weren't selling em at the time for $1100

originally had focals in the front and when my stock rears went I thought I'd upgrade but the clarity of these were far more superior than the focals just so crisp clear and beautiful sound as well as a solid mid range bass handling I had to relocate the focal to the rear and put these up front.. And they are both running off the same 4 channel amp so power delivery is the same also crank full ball all day these all day with my twin 12" Fusion Jonah Lomus hooked to twin 1250wrms monoblocks to power them an it sounds pure porn... and they don't get drowned out they go all the way and you can hear the crispness even when you body is shaking from the bass nor do they get tired.

Anyways enough ranting good luck with the search...

Damn those are some serious speakers. 180 RMS? You'd need some a serious amp to power them.

Thanks though, I will look into them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318118-quality-splits/#findComment-5202757
Share on other sites

High Quality

Alpine (Type R)

Boston Acoustics (All)

DLS (All)

Eclipse (All)

Focal (All)

Fusion (All)

JL Audio ("All" except lower W series (SW) which go in Entry)

Kicker "KX/SX Series" (A) "L5/L7" (SW) "SS Series" (Sp)

Massive Audio (All)

MB Quart (Sp)

Rockford Fosgate "Power Series"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318118-quality-splits/#findComment-5203086
Share on other sites

well your options would be huge in that price range, take a disk you listen to often and demo it in a few stores

but use similar power as you would in the car. and no sub

you need to seal off that door skin with dynomat or similar.

paint that MDF panel so it doesn't swell up if damp, 3 buck black paint is better then nothing

speakers like focal, audison, morel, rainbow etc. all need a decent seal, some even need a backing sealed chamber to keep from selfdestructing due to the magnet construction/venting. they sound great but lots more work to install properly

amps, well you can buy a decent mix for 200 bucks and up, don't overlook jaycar either. clearance items for 199 now

chris rodgers off here can hook you up with both items in a few brands I'm sure and you can trust his after sale support. he comes from the old school know how.

so best bet give him a bell and chat,then listen to his suggested models. if he can't help you then listen to a lot of speakers with your demo disk, not the stores SQ disk

pm me if you get stuck

Cheers

Troy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318118-quality-splits/#findComment-5204716
Share on other sites

High Quality

Alpine (Type R)

Boston Acoustics (All)

DLS (All)

Eclipse (All)

Focal (All)

Fusion (All)

JL Audio ("All" except lower W series (SW) which go in Entry)

Kicker "KX/SX Series" (A) "L5/L7" (SW) "SS Series" (Sp)

Massive Audio (All)

MB Quart (Sp)

Rockford Fosgate "Power Series"

Not the current MB Quart. The old company now trades under German Maestro; the current MB Quart are some shite ones

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318118-quality-splits/#findComment-5208213
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...