Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK - let your imagination run free here for a moment.

I will be OS for a couple of years and can bring back to Australia basically any vehicle as a personal import. I'm in Europe (actually Bulgaria) but can import and register right hand drive cars here, so no probs with bringing in a Jap car here first for the minimum 12 months (except for the transport costs) before sending back to Oz.

Plenty of cheap Porsches and Beemers here, but they are left hand drive and I don't want to drive a LHD car (or do the conversion) back in Oz.

I'm leaning towards an Evo 7 or perhaps an Autech S15 convertible (do a turbo conversion back in Oz of course!). Needs to be a decent sort of a car 'tho as the transport costs and rego/insurance/storage costs here will add about $10k to the vehicle.

Suggestions?

In Bulgaria huh. Lada ?

I'd go European. TVR's are about GBP40K new. Friend sold her two year old golf in the UK for the aussie ev. of $9000. The damn thing had a Recaro Factory int.

Look at the UK used classic market and you'll find some real steals there. If I was any longer over there I would have bought back a S8 Audi. Two years old and only $40K.

Just remeber that with any import insurance will be a nightmare, even thought they were delivered in Oz dosn't make it cheaper.

I'd be leaning towards a Euro car rather than a Jap car. I'm looking at buying something in the UK to go for a driving tour mid this year round Europe and the price of BMW's is criminal. I was very surprised to find a heap of them under 5000 quid! And they are 318i's either - I think there was even an original M5 in that lot somewhere. I'd imagine your budget would be alot better than mine - go Euro pimp - Audi, BMW, Merc.

OR a completely different track to go down would be the Ford GT90. Handles like a Lotus Elise and goes harder than a Ferrari 360 - well according to Jeremy Clarkson anyhow - and I think all for under 90k.. :)

FORD GT90!! DO iT!! :)

General specifications

Country of origin

United States Produced in1995

Numbers built N/A

Body design N/A

Weight 1451 kg / 3198.9 lbs

Drivetrain

Engine V12

Engine location Mid, longitudinally mounted Displacement 5.927 liter / 361.7 cu in Valvetrain4 valves/cylinder, DOHC Fuel feed

Fuel injection

Aspiration-Quad Turbos (OMG! :))

Gearbox-5 Speed Manual Drive

Rear wheel drive Performance figures

Power 720 bhp / 537.1 kW @ 6600 rpm

BHP/Liter121.5 Torque 895 Nm / 660.1 ft lbs @ 4750 rpm

Power to weight ratio 0.50 bhp/kg

Top Speed 234.9 mph / 378.0 km/h 0-60 mph Acceleration 3.10 s

899-1.jpg

899-5.jpg

899-6.jpg

Just a bit of inspiration.... :D I wanna see one on an SAU cruise :)

Good Boy Fane *pats head* - but thats not the car. Maybe it's not the GT90. The one pictured above is the older generation of the car I was suggesting. As Jeremy Clarkson said about it - "Ford have been great at making cars go very very fast in a straight line, but they must have some very stright roads in America.." It definitely does not handle like a Lotus Elise!

I'll try to find pics of what I'm talking about.... :)

Found it.. It's the new Ford GT, will be released this year. Specs as follows:

Engine

Configuration Mid, longitudinally mounted Ford Modular 90º V8

Construction aluminum block and head

Displacement 5.409 liter / 330.1 cu in

Bore / Stroke 90.2 mm (3.6 in) / 105.8 mm (4.2 in)

Compression ratio 8.4:1

Valvetrain 4 valves/cylinder, DOHC

Fuel feed Sequential multi-port Fuel injection

Aspiration Eaton roots-type supercharger

Drivetrain

Chassis/body composite body panels on aluminum spaceframe

Suspension unequal length upper A-arms and lower L-arms, coil springs, monotube dampers, tubular anti-roll bar

Steering rack-and-pinion, power assisted

Brakes vented discs, all-round, ABS

Gearbox Ricardo 6 Speed Manual , Rear wheel drive

Performance figures

Power 500 bhp / 373.0 kW @ 6000 rpm

BHP/Liter 92.4

Torque 678 Nm / 500.1 ft lbs @ 4500 rpm

pic.mv?imagenum=1&num=1689

pic.mv?imagenum=15&num=1689

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...