Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

If your interested let me know... same deal as always... pm me for bank details if you don't already have them and deposits of $50 for SAU members and $75 for non members need to be in by Thursday 22nd Jan.

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31830-ec-track-day-monday-26th-jan/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Maj,

Im in! Cars tuned, new tyres need to go on, as they are shagged after 45,000Km and 10 + track days.

"Swirl swirl with crazy sound affect as Oz falls back into his chair in a trance"

I have a question wont track days wear out my tyres?

Oh Sh!t ..... slap slap, wow, where am I? For a second there I thought I had a vagina!

I think a will only do a 1/2 day, unless it rains and then I will do a full one, start you rain dance fatz!

I thought we would have more people on a non week day?

We need to book soon or there will be no spots.

I think Zane will do a 1/2 day with me as well.

$200 for 1/2 people

$190 for 3-10 people

$180 for 10 plus

Of course your deposit comes off the total cost. So for SAU-NSW Club members it is $50 dep and $130 approximatly on the day. For non members it is $75 Deposit and $105 on the day.

I'm trying to negotiate a discount that can be offered to our members always regardless of numbers. Will advise.

Dan.

hijackers, this is a serious thread :P

And I've proved that pulsars are quicker than skylines. They can go faster than 193 while the skyser sits on the speed cut :P

Simon, I think you need to bed in your new car too, better get out there ;)

2 more GTRs for Monday. One 33 and one 32 for a little run in and testing.

Hey Guys,

 

If your interested let me know... same deal as always... pm me for bank details if you don't already have them and deposits of $50 for SAU members and $75 for non members need to be in by Thursday 22nd Jan.

 

Dan.

Should be good. Monday will be the first real shake down day for the GTR since being reborn as a track car. Won't be going to hard til the new motor is run in, but will be a good run none the less.

Allan's GTR has a ton of power, and decent brakes, but the suspension is a little tired, should got really well in a straight line.

See everyone then.

Will be good to catch up and have a chat Mark, look forward to some good fun.

I also have a NA Supra turning up on the day as well. 1/2 day only.




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...