Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why bother? GT-R seats are similarly looking and bolt straight in.

ugh why does everyone question what someone else wants to do! wrx seats are nice as and there different.

If everyone did the same thing the world would be boring.

Why bother? GT-R seats are similarly looking and bolt straight in.

Because in NZ, WRX seats can be picked up for $150ish where as GTR seats are $600+

and no-one can deny that WRX seats are f**kin comfy lol

Sweet cheers, wouldn't be able to find out if they're on the factory Skyline rails modified or custom or even the WRX ones been modified?

Would be much appreciated :D

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

R31 rails are great and can be universally fitted to a lot of seats, we fitted a Recaro to my brother's R31 stock rail too.

Unfortunately the R32 rails are a lot more complicated so there's a rare chance they'll just bolt straight on to the stock R32 rail.

it will be a fair bit of work to fit. like mentioned above the floor mounting points are not all level so there are different levels of height needed to get the seal to ultimately mount flat. plus the rear inner mounts are on the tunner not on the floor.... it's a fairly unique style of mounting. sure the seats may only cost $150 but the cost of having a competent mechanic or engineer weld up the appropriate adapters and mounts to make the seats mount safely will be probably $300 or more per seat. with that in mind suddenly $600 for 32 GTR seats looks like good value. they bolt straight in and mount as per factory so are perfectly safe and legal. 33 GTR seats do too and so do 34 GTR seats and they are really nice. yes they cost but they are all miles better than WRX seats and will take 10 mins to fit, require no custom work and be 100% safe.

gota agree with beer baron about the quality,

i had wrx seats in my old sss and now owning a gtr, u cannot compare the two, GTR seats are soo much more supportive. Then i went to r34 GTR seats and they would have to be in my opinion one of the best factory seats that u can get.

and as people have said before they will bolt straight on taking only 10 minutes

  • 2 years later...

What ever happend to thid, did you fit wrx seats in the car?

My self is looking to fit evo (possibly wrx) seats as they are so nice! I just don't know if they fold good enough (or at all) so people can get in the back seat.

The gtr33 seats are okay, the gtr34 seats were kinda to small for me, or at least for my legs (84kg and 187cm with long legs).

Would really like to know if you got this to work and how.

/Stefan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...