Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have spoken to a few workshops about management and have been told OBVIOUSLY that the management they endorse is the best and everything else has faults.

One supplier in particular mentioned that WOLFs have startup issues, as in the car is hard to start. Now I am sure steve is going to answer this so here goes.

Could these startup rumours be as a result of a NON plugin wolf being installed by a person unfamiliar with wolfs which has caused this as they were inexperienced in tuning it.

Or can you expect this with a plugin wolf or any wolf for that matter. It seems a fairly significant issue so thats why I am leaning toward my first opinion to do with inexperience.

someone post up any feedback you have heard. NOT WHO YOU HEARD IT FROM

Thanks

Oh and if I take 2 wolfs is it any cheaper.

or maybe if others are looking to do this and have questions about it you could post up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31834-wolf-plugin-question/
Share on other sites

I have a friend who had a wolf plug-in. He was commenting that it does take longer to start (cranking time) but I personally think with a bit more time tuning, it should be better.

I have spoken to a few workshops about management and have been told OBVIOUSLY that the management they endorse is the best and everything else has faults.  

 

One supplier in particular mentioned that WOLFs have startup issues, as in the car is hard to start. Now I am sure steve is going to answer this so here goes.  

 

Could these startup rumours be as a result of a NON plugin wolf being installed by a person unfamiliar with wolfs which has caused this as they were inexperienced in tuning it.  

 

Or can you expect this with a plugin wolf or any wolf for that matter. It seems a fairly significant issue so thats why I am leaning toward my first opinion to do with inexperience.  

 

someone post up any feedback you have heard. NOT WHO YOU HEARD IT FROM

 

 

Thanks

 

Oh and if I take 2 wolfs is it any cheaper.  

or maybe if others are looking to do this and have questions about it you could post up.

you'll find that with any after market ecu the tuning will show how well it starts idles runs etc, my experiences all be it minimal with the old v3's showed they wern't the best with cold starts, the v4 seems to be a lot better at it, but ive not actually been in a car running one as yet so i can't comment..

I had a few issues with cold starts and re-starting on my wolf3d v4 but its all been sorted now with a software update from wolf done by steve. I have noticed it does take a little more to turn over and start but since the update its started everytime firsttime and without having to give it any gas. For the money the wolf3d is hard to go past but with the soaring aussie dollar the powerfc is getting cheaper either one will do the job for a street car.

Steve's home computer is down at the moment, so if you don't mind I'll field this question on his behalf.

Cold start is fully tunable on the Wolf, and as such if you have a Wolf put into your car and leave it overnight with Steve then he'll have no worries in making it start well in the morning.

There has been one other issue, that a few people including Rob77 experienced, where the cranking signal wasn't being picked up first time, which meant a few cranks before the car fired into life, Wolf have since released an update which makes it start first time. This was only apparent in a couple cars but Wolf quickly worked to fix the problem.

Any of the other good ECU's should be able to coldstart without any issues, just really depends on the tuner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...