Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...

all rb + rd diesel + N1 and Tomie blocks are the same as highlighted area on the left pic - series 1 n/a rb30 - written by nipzo block to use. but right pic - series 2 vl block different has stud plates fitted maybe strong or weaker , trying to figure out

  • 2 months later...

This is my exact build. Had a junker manifold and a .59 (!!!) housing and dynoed at 370 whp run in tune. Didn't get to dyno it after I added the true divided twin gate 6boost. Very responsive on my run in tune. If you tune it well you will be very happy. I have a feeling however, that the exhaust wheel will become the limiting factor. It is just too small. It seems better results may be had with the 6266.

This is my opinion.

Anyone got a precision billet turbo on there 30? Looking at the 6262 journal bearing with .82 rear.

Can someone please do me a kindness and post the part numbers for King Bearings RB30 main and big end STD spec bearings. ACL is out until the end of summer. Jeez. I for the life of me cannot seem to nail them down. Kings webpage is pretty convoluted :/.

Thanks in advance.

Edited by ST240
  • 2 months later...

hi guys I have a rb30 series 2 motor in my vl commodore and am wanting to turbo it just wondering what advice people can give me on what to do and where to get the parts from im doing it to a budget so any help would be great thanks :no:

I would recommend trying the Calias turbo forum. they would be your best source of info mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...