Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thought this was gonna be interesting but half the banter on here is sr vs rb, seems like u just posted a new thread up on nissansilvia.com

i say a better engine is a 308 and you should change series to suit ( ok i lie )

info to back up my statement goes 'here'

now would the rest of the haters keep this to RB20DE discussion ONLY

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmm, even though I'd love to have a go at it, the more people I discuss this with, the more it seems like an SR would be a better choice though.

An SR20VE out of the box, no mods will make ~150kw at the flywheel, and it will take alot of work to get the RB to that level.

That's the other big issue... it really is an unknown with the RB, because so few people have bothered.

Hmm, even though I'd love to have a go at it, the more people I discuss this with, the more it seems like an SR would be a better choice though.

An SR20VE out of the box, no mods will make ~150kw at the flywheel, and it will take alot of work to get the RB to that level.

That's the other big issue... it really is an unknown with the RB, because so few people have bothered.

yeah that is the thing. to get the rb to the level of a stock sr20ve is going to take a decent amount of work (not massive amounts, but not just exhaust and air filter). the sr20ve might be a bit more highly strung to start with, but unless you spend thousands and thousands on either motor to get them to their absolute limit you won't know which motor will give the best results. so for a minimal budget the sr20ve is going to be the better base to start with, since it already has 35kw more to start with.

  • 3 months later...

Everytime the same :) so many threads without any useful information... if you want to tell him, that RB20 N/A power is a bad idea, why not write ONE reply. No one is interested in reading thousands of replies with the same text/info again and again... and again.

Differences in oil pumps of the SR20 and RB20 - take a look:

Picture shows the differences of the stock RB26 (top) and the N1 (bottom) pump. N1 = advanced design, not only concerning the housing, but also the cavities of the pump gears (they can be made by wire eroding). RB20 is similar to the RB26 stock design, SR20 looks more like the N1 pump.

rb25%20oil%20pumps%20-%20stock%20vs%20n1.jpg

If you want to upgrade the oil pump of the RB20, you'd have to make one or purchase an external pump like the dry sump ones.

Valvetrain:

The RB20 has a better valvetrain design when it comes to racing (high revs). Rocker arms (SR20) aren't comparable to directly acutated bucket tappets (RB). Every part in the valvetrain can represent a spring if the revs and therefore velocity and acceleration are high enough - so every rocker arm acts like a hard spring (means: harmonics and maybe cracks) . Furthermore the bucket tappets are rotated by the camshaft to reduce wear! Hydraulics have to be removed from both engine's valvetrains.

Variable valvetrains (with variable lift) are very difficult to integrate into a bucket tappet, that's why most cars with VVT use rocker arms. I think Porsche tried BTs and VVT some time ago... But a VVT doesn't matter in typical racing applications - or do you want to drive the car sometimes in the 3000rpm range and then rev the sh*t out of it up to 9000?

Bore and stroke:

69.7mm is very short stroked. Don't know why Nissan built such an engine, but when you compare it to the SR20 (86mm) and think about the average piston speed (let's say we limit it to 25m/s) then the RB20 has a lot more rpm and power potential! -> 10800 compared to 8700rpm. Ok, this is only theory, but it's possible and it's important to know. And :( don't tell me about the squeezed SR20s driving around at drag or drift events...

So much for that.

  • 2 months later...

Was the neo engine VCT equipped? If so that would be the best base to begin with. Concentrate on headwork & flow, solid lifters, and a highly balanced bottom end to take advantage of high rpm's. Adapt some ITB's, and a clever extractor design. I guess there's many possible options, it all comes down to budget in the end i think.

Everytime the same :) so many threads without any useful information... if you want to tell him, that RB20 N/A power is a bad idea, why not write ONE reply. No one is interested in reading thousands of replies with the same text/info again and again... and again.

Differences in oil pumps of the SR20 and RB20 - take a look:

Picture shows the differences of the stock RB26 (top) and the N1 (bottom) pump. N1 = advanced design, not only concerning the housing, but also the cavities of the pump gears (they can be made by wire eroding). RB20 is similar to the RB26 stock design, SR20 looks more like the N1 pump.

rb25%20oil%20pumps%20-%20stock%20vs%20n1.jpg

If you want to upgrade the oil pump of the RB20, you'd have to make one or purchase an external pump like the dry sump ones.

Valvetrain:

The RB20 has a better valvetrain design when it comes to racing (high revs). Rocker arms (SR20) aren't comparable to directly acutated bucket tappets (RB). Every part in the valvetrain can represent a spring if the revs and therefore velocity and acceleration are high enough - so every rocker arm acts like a hard spring (means: harmonics and maybe cracks) . Furthermore the bucket tappets are rotated by the camshaft to reduce wear! Hydraulics have to be removed from both engine's valvetrains.

Variable valvetrains (with variable lift) are very difficult to integrate into a bucket tappet, that's why most cars with VVT use rocker arms. I think Porsche tried BTs and VVT some time ago... But a VVT doesn't matter in typical racing applications - or do you want to drive the car sometimes in the 3000rpm range and then rev the sh*t out of it up to 9000?

Bore and stroke:

69.7mm is very short stroked. Don't know why Nissan built such an engine, but when you compare it to the SR20 (86mm) and think about the average piston speed (let's say we limit it to 25m/s) then the RB20 has a lot more rpm and power potential! -> 10800 compared to 8700rpm. Ok, this is only theory, but it's possible and it's important to know. And :) don't tell me about the squeezed SR20s driving around at drag or drift events...

So much for that.

thats all very well, but Rb20 inlet ports flow all of about 120-130cfm...So Fark all, even heavily ported you would be lucky to make over 200 genuine horsepower at the flywheel, where as Sr20 that figure comes in the Autech S15 road car, with nothing but a bit of compression and some cams.

But a VVT doesn't matter in typical racing applications - or do you want to drive the car sometimes in the 3000rpm range and then rev the sh*t out of it up to 9000?

This is a valid point that a lot of people seem to be missing in this thread when talking about the VVL in the SR20VE.

  • 5 months later...
Unless you have 150 different gears in your gearbox there will be corners where you will be in the 3000-3500rpm range

I think every car has gear ratios which make it possible to shift down whilst driving in the 3000-3500rpm range - i've never seen a car with more than 3000rpm difference between - let's say - the second and third gear.

thats all very well, but Rb20 inlet ports flow all of about 120-130cfm...So Fark all, even heavily ported you would be lucky to make over 200 genuine horsepower at the flywheel, where as Sr20 that figure comes in the Autech S15 road car, with nothing but a bit of compression and some cams.

Please keep in mind, that there are 6 pistons.

What i've found (cfm):

SR20 - 205-245 stock, up to 275 ported (x4 -> 1100 cfm, example)

RB20 - ? stock, up to 240 ported (x6 -> 1440 cfm, look here)

Build a sr20ve

Use the p12 head and not the p11 head.

your already at over 200hp. they come std like that.

The p12 is the one that come sout in the latest primera they made

Yes you can make them run in a rwd configuration. We did it on the jpp 180sx.

The head on an sr20 can not be ported to flow as well as a stock p12 sr20ve (p12)

Common shaft for the rockers so you will not beable to do a sr20 rocker flying off thing.

The one we peaked hp at 8800.

You will have the light weight of the sr20 and it will all be behind the front axle the car will handle alot better and also go alot faster due to the lighter weight.

its a no brainer

  • 9 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...