Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what is the cheapest way to "get inside" the management system of an R32?

I just want to change the fuel and ignition maps a little to get it runnign sweeter. Mine is over fueling a bit even tho my Oxy sensor is new, and I think the igntion timing could be better.

Apexi fc? or something else??

has anyone tried one of those kits from jaycar that are meant to adjust the ecu's closed loop mixtures?

+1 for nistune. will get you there for about half the cost of a pfc. should be under $1000 installed and tuned.

also the oxygen sensor won't solve any over fueling issues you are having when you floor it. they are only designed to help with fuel economy at light throttle applications. once you floor it the ecu ignores it.

if you don't know what you are doing i strongly advise to not try to tune an ecu by yourself as you can have some pretty serious effect on the car and not only end up with less power but also possibly end up damaging the engine.

+1 for second hand PFC, mine should be coming up shortly for sale.

Id be very interested in that! Let me know:)

How do they reprogramme the standard ECU? Do they take out a eprom and put it in a eprom reprogrammer? or do they have a way of connecting a laptop up to the standard ecu and changing the values on the fly?

www.nistune.com

Yeah i was looking at that a while ago, and read the whole website this morning. Think ill order one, as I dont think ill be able to refrain from biulding up the engine in this car in the future anyway haha

Do i have to buy a consult cable?

Edited by stimps

Nistune will definitely be the cheapest option and probably the best for what you need. If you are thinking about modding your car later on down the track than maybe go for a second hand Power FC unit but it will be would be more expensive.

The jaycar kits are decent - we have used them on cheap old cars to good effect and because they are pretty cheap you might want to try it out and see if you get the results you are looking for from it. But I would probably stick with the nistune for the safer alternative.

The jaycar kits are decent - we have used them on cheap old cars to good effect and because they are pretty cheap you might want to try it out and see if you get the results you are looking for from it. But I would probably stick with the nistune for the safer alternative.

can you tell me a little more about the jaycar one? does it actually take over control of the injectors? or modify the incoming signals? how is it programmed? can mixtures be changed while your driving? or is it simply a program and go arrangement?

i think the jaycar systems are just a signal bender. they alter the signal coming in from the AFM to trick the ecu into thinking that less air is entering the engine so it puts in less fuel. the downside is that you can't independantly alter the timing or the fuel at different revs or throttle loads. they are ok as a cheap basic alternative, but won't give you the gains of a fully programable ecu

+1 for NIStune. Do it! Best money you'll spend on your 32. Consult cable is good if you get the software as you can log and bring up digital dashboard with just about every gauge you can think of, even injector duty cycle. Plus you can then run it like a diag PC and knock out cylinders for testing and get ECU error codes etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...