Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

The air will not come out from the face vents nor will it come out from the feet vent.

Air only comes out from the windscreen vent.

The heater works as i can feel hot to cold air change but can not change modes from face to feet to face/feet.

I have put the unit into diag mode and ran though the steps. The arrow's appear when you cycle through the modes so it seems the unit is working.

I can see the little arm move backwards and forwards , which is located to the right hand side at the back of the center console.

You have to stick your head in the passengers foot-well and turn your head right and looking slightly upwards.

I have also pulled the front console out including radio and climate control system to see if there is another arm with a rod of some sort that connects to something but i can't see anything at all, or a relay of some sort.

Has anyone had a problem like this were they can't change from face to feet to face/feet.

After searching through the forums i think it might be the mode door actuator. (not my pic)

post-20278-1273148483_thumb.jpg

Located on drivers side.

i have changed modes and watched to see if it moves and stays in the same position.

So i think it's dead.

Can this be pulled apart and fix or do you have to replace them

edit...

this is so strange on the passengers side where you have the other servo where it controls the hot/cold ( again not my pic)

post-20278-1273149733_thumb.jpg

will not move when you change from hot to cold

but where the air is coming out from the top dash on the windscreen you can feel it change ie.. get's hoter and colder.

i checked both and the rods are still connected to both servos.

I'm i just unlucky and have had both motors fail at the same time?

has anyone had both fail at the same time.

Problem fixed , turned out that the motor that controls the vents which is located on the drivers side of the center console was stuffed. ( the first pic i posted up)

Went down to my local jap parts wrecker and got another one.

All good cheers.

Good to hear mate. It's a little late now but if you search the forums there's a way to run a self test on the air con and fan system (It's been about 4 years since I did one, but I think it's by holding a button down as you start the car).

It goes through and tests the motor, air con, temp sensor, light sensor and so on, and probably would have shown an error for that part.

Cheers,

Dave

  • 1 month later...

Can anyone post a link to where the thread is for programming the heating / cooling unit as I can't find it. My heater ain't heating properly.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...er-t324009.html

have you put it into diag mode and tested all the sensors?

In the pass i have found that during summer time the heater will not run hot because the sensors know that the cabin is already hot,

the only i have got it to pump out hot air during summer is to hold down the hot button so it say's FH.

So in saying that i would check the sensors.

have you put it into diag mode and tested all the sensors?

In the pass i have found that during summer time the heater will not run hot because the sensors know that the cabin is already hot,

the only i have got it to pump out hot air during summer is to hold down the hot button so it say's FH.

So in saying that i would check the sensors.

How do I put it into diag mode? Can you tell me or point me to the thread that assists?

Climate Control Diagnostics R32

The climate control has a diagnostic mode.

Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the OFF button for five seconds within ten seconds of turning the ignition on.

Sensor check

Sensor check is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen.

If normal, a "20" is displayed.

If abnormal the failed sensor number is displayed. The sensor numbers are as follows:

20 - all is normal

21 - outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty

This file should help you if you get stuck,

Heater.pdf

Climate Control Diagnostics R32

The climate control has a diagnostic mode.

Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the OFF button for five seconds within ten seconds of turning the ignition on.

Sensor check

Sensor check is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen.

If normal, a "20" is displayed.

If abnormal the failed sensor number is displayed. The sensor numbers are as follows:

20 - all is normal

21 - outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty

This file should help you if you get stuck,

Heater.pdf

Righto, I had a play with this tonight. All was good but for Step 3, page HA-6, where 34 & 35 were each flashing twice. 34 is Foot and 35 is D/F (defrost defog?) so I'll assume there are faults there? It says that this indicates that 'harness or mode door actuator is faulty'. Any ideas what this means?

Further to the above I adjusted the 'difference between indicated temp and sensed temp', as per Step 6. I've set it to +3 which should mean it always gives me 3 degrees more than displayed....See how that goes tomorrow at sparrow's fart.

Linking threads.......http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R32-Gtr-Cabin-Heater-t324009.html

Have a look at my 2nd post when i started this thread.

To me it seems to be the mode door actuator that is giving you the trouble.

I had to change mine over because i was not able to change modes at all. mine was stuck on the windshield.

The location of the mode door actuator is on the drivers side.

Open the drivers side door and crouch down on the ground. Move your seat as far back as possible. (this will help you)

Stick your head in the drives foot well and turn your head to the left and look slightly up. You will see what i'm talking about. I posted a pic in my second post. It's the first photo.

Sometimes the arms just need a bit of lubrication as the they tend to get stuck. or sometime the harness may not be plug in all the way.

Or the motor could of just died.

When you are in the diag mode and repeating step 3 have a look to see if you can hear the motor or see if the arm is trying to move.

They are fairly cheap to replace, just go to your local jap wrecker and have a look around.

I hope all this helps.

  • 3 years later...

How to fix the door mode actuator.

Make sure that the yellowy gear of the worm drive spins freely. Mine was tight on the shaft and the motor wasn't able to spin everything. The bore is 3.5mm so if you run a 3.5mm drill through the hole in the gear it should open up the hole enough otherwise you will need to polish it out with some 400grit wet and dry paper rolled into a tube. It takes a bit of time but it fixes the problem.

Also, before pulling the actuator arm off the actuator unit, mark the orientation of the arm to the shaft with a permanent marker somehow so that it makes reassembly easier.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/72809-c-mode-door-actuator-rebuild.html

  • 5 years later...
On 6/10/2010 at 4:15 PM, Zardos said:

Have a look at my 2nd post when i started this thread.

To me it seems to be the mode door actuator that is giving you the trouble.

I had to change mine over because i was not able to change modes at all. mine was stuck on the windshield.

The location of the mode door actuator is on the drivers side.

Open the drivers side door and crouch down on the ground. Move your seat as far back as possible. (this will help you)

Stick your head in the drives foot well and turn your head to the left and look slightly up. You will see what i'm talking about. I posted a pic in my second post. It's the first photo.

Sometimes the arms just need a bit of lubrication as the they tend to get stuck. or sometime the harness may not be plug in all the way.

Or the motor could of just died.

When you are in the diag mode and repeating step 3 have a look to see if you can hear the motor or see if the arm is trying to move.

They are fairly cheap to replace, just go to your local jap wrecker and have a look around.

I hope all this helps.

What did you use to lubricate the arm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What an awesome idea to fit the facelift Lamborghini Diablo headlights. They are a perfect fit!
    • An update regarding the registration with the DVLA I sent off the paperwork the day after I collected the car from the port, two weeks later it was all returned with a letter explaining they have rejected the application. This was because the cheque was £20 short for the road tax (I used a price list I found online). Nevermind it is what it is, it was sent back to them the following day with a new cheque. Fast forward another 2 weeks or so, I called them for an update to be told it had been rejected. Yesterday (16th September) I received the documents back along with another letter, this time it was because I didn't put an X in one box on the V750 (personalised number plate certificate), which declared that I had the rights to the personalised number plate. Why this wasn't mentioned in the first rejection letter, I don't know, but it could have saved this headache. The documents were sent back today, so fingers crossed third times a charm and it'll FINALLY be registered on the road just in time for the bad weather (woohoo!) To cheer myself up I lowered the front 25mm, was sick of seeing it sit like a monster truck. No idea how much clearance I'll have getting on and off the driveway, I'll worry about that when I can actually drive it
    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...