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I only have one key and it is really worn, i have a spare blank that i got some time ago but for the $400 or so it cost me from nissan i dont want to have it wruined by using the old worn key to make a copy.

I want to know how to get my ignition barrel out so i can get the waffers out to work out the code of the key.

I done this my old honda prelude and it was qiute simple but i just cant work it out for the skyline, on the honda all you had to do put the key in turn it to the on possition push in a pin and pull out the key with the barrel on it.

You didnt have to unbolt it from the steering coloum to get the inner barrel out.

If anyone knows how to do this on the skyline your help is greatly appreciated.

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You can use a worn out key to trace a new key to be cut.

I did this two weeks ago, and the newly cut key comes out just as sharp (it wont be worn like the 'trace' key).

Not sure about the 34s, assuming it's the same as my Cefiro, it's a BITCH of a task.

Dash out, unplug alot of wiring around the steering collumn, and drill through / extract 2 security bolts.

My suggestion:

Use the worn out key to cut a new one, it'll be fine.

I have to admit im a bit of a perfectionist, some might say OCD.

But after having the honda key barrel fail prematurely, due to the use of a worn key and previous owners having to much sh*t hanging off their key chain. This cost $540 to replace the barrel so I'd rather have the nissan key cut properly.

When I replaced the honda key barrel, all i had to do was put in a working key, turn it to the on position, push in a lever and the key pulled out with the barrel on it (separate to the housing that is bolted to the steering coloum with the two security bolts that the heads break off when they are done up)

This enables you have the key barrel re-keyed in the event say a thief or someone has a copy of your key.

Ive done it on a honda, ford, holden, suzuki, so i would have thought there is a straight forward way to get the nissan one out.

I would just pull out the door or boot barrel but i would be pissed off if i go to the effort of getting one of those out only to find out it might not have the same number of pins as the ignition barrel ie. 8 points instead of 10.

I know if i got the current key i have copied it would work but i know it wouldnt be as accurate as getting it cut to code, when i replaced the honda key barrel i had one key cut to code and went back a week later to get a spare made, asked the guy to cut it to the code and he said nuhh it will be just as good on the normal copy machine. Just cos he couldn't be f**ked setting up the other machine. and i could see with my eyes that it was miles off let alone measuring the difference, you could feel the normal copy girnded the barrel so it went in the bin and i told the to do another one properly.

I like doing things right the first time and not having to fix stuff ups later cos it wasnt done right in the first place.

If anyone could shed some light on how to remove the barrel without geting out a drill, dremel etc to remove the whole housing i would be extremly gratefull.

Sorry for the life story, just trying to explain why i want to do it this way.

Like I said man, security bolts...the only way to get them off is with a drill...they don't have a pattern in the head for a screwdriver, they're rounded off.

Look up security / sheer bolts.

It's alot easier to get the door locks out...the boot lock is probably the easiest of them all.

The barrel is in with sheer bolts so it can't be stolen, so it shouldnt be "easy" to remove.

I still don't get why you think cutting a key is half assed, even give Nissan your VIN number and they can get a key already cut (if they have that VIN on index).

Like I said man, security bolts...the only way to get them off is with a drill...
Cold chisel, bash a straight screw slot in the head, unscrew. Or you might need to drift it with a pin punch. But you definitely don't need to drill it out.

Depends what tools you can fit in there without taking the dash out, and depends how adjsutable the collumn is on 34s.

When I replaced the barrell on the Ceffy, on the bottom one I used the drill to unwind it by wedging the drill bit in between the bolt and the hole...but couldnt do that with the upper bolt, and not enough clearance for screwdrivers/chisels to get in there.

he said nuhh it will be just as good on the normal copy machine

That is pretty much true, a key cutting machine only copies and cuts at whole number depths between 0 & 9 a slightly worn key will still register closest to the nearest hole number ie the correct code, if it doesn't the key won't work full stop.

They don't 'trace' around a key as most people think, there is a bit more to it.

Edited by 666DAN

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