Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Currently, Redline 10w40. Change every 10,000kms.

The engine responds to it the best out of all oils I have put in there over the past 3+ years.

I used to change at 5000km intervals and have also used Motul 300v, Mobil 1, Fuchs, Amsoil, Shell Helix Ultra, Penrite Syn, Royal Purple.

Make sure you use a decent filter too (Veruspeed NIS-004 FTW! :3some: )

Edited by iamhe77

Every 40,000.

Have used Nulon 100% Synthetic ATF for the past year and a half or so.

Is compatible with Nissan Matic J oil. Gear changes feel fantastic under heavy or light load.

Have found that the PWR 6cyl trans cooler are pretty damn effective and help our RE5RO5A transmissions from getting too hot :(

Have found that the PWR 6cyl trans cooler are pretty damn effective and help our RE5RO5A transmissions from getting too hot :(

Quick note for those interested: the Davies Craig trans cooler kit (available at supacheap) is (usually) significantly cheaper than the PWR branded one. If you pull the DC sticker off, underneath you'll find a PWR etching: same cooler, waaaay cheaper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...