Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

A few months ago, I showed you guys my brand new Garrett gt3076r (with the 3037s core) and a .63 exhaust housing external gate:

post-36975-1273567538_thumb.jpg

I really wondered if it was ever going to be put onto the car as there were set backs for both me and Sam repeatedly.

The initial idea was to have a special adapter that had the screamer pipe attached to it and went inbetween the turbo and the stock manifold and tucked the gate right under the manifold to be hidden, it looked great on Sam's rb25 motor when he was testing fitting it.

Unfortunately it wouldn't fit on my car,even after shaving it down as much as possible, as we worked out because it is a 33 GTS4, it has higher chassy rails (same as a GTR) then a standard GTST, so after waiting months for it to be completed it had to be scrapped.

post-36975-1273567578_thumb.jpg post-36975-1273567604_thumb.jpg

We then opted to simply weld the gate onto the back of the turbo, I was disappointed as the gate would be alot more visible and I would have to make holes in my new precious turbo, but didn't want to go with internal gate. post-36975-1273567668_thumb.jpg

over the past 2 weeks I did most of the work myself with Sam giving me help and advice every step of the way and finally the car was ready to get onto a tilt tray to his shop on Friday.

He fixed up a few loose ends that I forgot about/couldn't do and called me last night to pick it up.

Now all I can say is it is great to see the hard work and money I have put into it have paid off.

Here are the results and before and after with my previous turbo.

Afirstdynohypergearsmaller.jpg vs Afirstdynogt3076rsmaller.jpg

Loose ends: it doesn't have a blow off valve at the moment as the afm is relocated too close to the standard bov position so need to get it placed somewhere else, running on a bleed valve which is absolutely fine, but I already have a gizzmo ms-ibc and would like to use it. Also I am going to heat shield the whole thing so hopefully it can be somewhat hidden.

Also, quite sure the exedy cushion button is not holding 100%, whats the next step up? say from 300-350rwkwish?

Summary: We got it up to 295rwkw but wanted to make sure it was safe, so at this level, the highest knock is 20.

It has full boost (18psi) at 3,400rpm in 4th, pulls you back really well all the way to red line, it was slipping on the dyno so had to have 2 guys sitting on back and the screamer is ridiculous, way too loud, so I will plumb that back in.

Adam

P.S I will try to get some videos up soon

post-36975-1273567240_thumb.jpg

Why does the run stop early? (Thats twice now Sam in a week, take them to 7500rpm! :))

Make sure the exhaust plumb is nice is about the only thing ya need to worry about.

I could feel a bit of a drop when i had my GT30 external and then plumbed as the exhaust wasn't the best back then :D

So be mindful is you plumb and there is a bit of a drop that'll be what the cause is!

Doesn't look too savage onto boost actually - nice and controllable curve!

when you say drop, drop in power, torque or both?

your right interms of boost, it has a building up sort of feel as oppose to the on/off smack boost feel but i was going to worry about that further down the track, plus this is my only car so want to keep it somewhat comfy.

1 thing I have found interesting, even though this has heaps more torque/power, it "feels" slower, I think that is partially because I havent put the front drive shaft back in and the car just keeps skidding, but im not sure whether it is also the clutch having something to do with it.

Very nice, at the end of the day GT3071 and 3076 are by far the best bolt on option for skylines... even the internal gate ones work a treat.

Killer to see it pulled 224 on sams dyno, my memory is shit so i pulled your old hypergear file (jan 09) and it pulled 224 here too :)

post-34927-1273574167_thumb.jpg

when you say drop, drop in power, torque or both?

your right interms of boost, it has a building up sort of feel as oppose to the on/off smack boost feel but i was going to worry about that further down the track, plus this is my only car so want to keep it somewhat comfy.

1 thing I have found interesting, even though this has heaps more torque/power, it "feels" slower, I think that is partially because I havent put the front drive shaft back in and the car just keeps skidding, but im not sure whether it is also the clutch having something to do with it.

The power was slowly dipping as you can see boost maintaining right near the end of the graph - just wondering what would have occured if another 1000rpm was utilised.

Similar to the hypergear thread at the moment with the run ending soon (ye i know that was boost control somewhat related)

So more interests sake to see if it was indeed nosing over like the graph might suggest.

Ye its actually more progessive than i would expect a .63 rear housing to otherwise be. I would have thought it to be a bit more savage actually.

Wondering if boost control is setup that way to make it more streetable as a side question?!?!?! :)

You'll soon find out if its clutch once you get all 4 wheels turning :thumbsup:

wow mafia they are so similar, I'd guess the reason mine has about ~15-20kw more at the speed lines up to 6000 due to higher compression motor?

tell me, because I have not seen my torque graph and based on yours, do you find yours is also a progressive build up or a light switch type of boost?

Thats true, maybe hey. My motor was just a stocko though.

How is yours built?

I didn't find it to be like a light switch, it was quick building, but definately had a progressive feel.

If you really knocked it back a gear and hammered it it could come on like a light switch.

Beautiful to drive though! Get your torque up if you can

ahhh yeh, built.... well......ehhmm.... stock n/a pistons, stock n/a rods, stock n/a headgasket, stock n/a rings... catch the drift? :thumbsup: (live life 2 testicals at a time)

jokes aside Im definitely going to do the head gasket next when have cash to be safe, a healthy motor is extremely important to me.

and what you have said interms of how it drives is exactly as mine feels, if in gear it builds up fast with a decent pull back but drop a gear and basically light switch and minimal traction in 2wd :)

....and I bought new tyres 2 days before I put this in!

Thanks for all the support guys, really makes me proud of whats been achieved and proves that setting realistic power goals with sufficient funds and equipment actually gives you a great chance of achieving what you want.

ahhh yeh, built.... well......ehhmm.... stock n/a pistons, stock n/a rods, stock n/a headgasket, stock n/a rings... catch the drift? :thumbsup: (live life 2 testicals at a time)

jokes aside Im definitely going to do the head gasket next when have cash to be safe, a healthy motor is extremely important to me.

and what you have said interms of how it drives is exactly as mine feels, if in gear it builds up fast with a decent pull back but drop a gear and basically light switch and minimal traction in 2wd :)

....and I bought new tyres 2 days before I put this in!

Thanks for all the support guys, really makes me proud of whats been achieved and proves that setting realistic power goals with sufficient funds and equipment actually gives you a great chance of achieving what you want.

dont bother with the HG, it should be sweet as is.

The NA's down low response and power seems to be lot more responsive. Good result. My SS-3 prototype with built in ExWG is almost finished in subject to out run GT3076s. Will be a good comparison in few weeks time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...