Jump to content
SAU Community

Motor choice  

52 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hi, i have been finally joined the broken RB club. :D

I have been considering many options of late in regards to what motor to build or throw into my GTS-T

The car is setup for track work and once this saga is over i would very much like to see it back on the track,

My goal is to have around 300rwkw that is reliable, an leave the motors almost untouched internally

I have the ability to build a 2530 or buy an rb26, so people in the know could you please give me some opinions

and also what is required for the rb26 to work eg. sump info.

Voice your opinion

what motor should i go for???

Edited by ON EDGE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320346-rb2530-or-rb26-in-an-r33/
Share on other sites

Well really you got to think. You have an RB25 in there allready (not sure how modified it is, but if it does have a lot of aftermarket parts, you can use them all), so the most cost effective and easiest conversion is the 30 bottom end.

Well really you got to think. You have an RB25 in there allready (not sure how modified it is, but if it does have a lot of aftermarket parts, you can use them all), so the most cost effective and easiest conversion is the 30 bottom end.

well true your right i have the parts for a 270-300rwkw setup, but would the rb26 have a logical reason to put it in????

well true your right i have the parts for a 270-300rwkw setup, but would the rb26 have a logical reason to put it in????

Well if thats the case than there isnt really a need for a 26.

If the motor was bog stock than i'd suggest 26 but not if it means buying turbos, injectors etc all over again

expect to spend a couple thousand if you just want to drop your mods onto the 25/30 (money to cover block modification to suit RB25 head + misc modifications to make the loom/water lines etc fit. (more if you aren't doing the engine in/out work yourself)

i assume you have an R33? all the sensors/engine mounts/ballancer/water pump/oil pump etc bolt up to the block. careful using an RB25 sump make sure it doesn't have the fins that stick up below cyls 4-5 as the crank will hit them.

would i get away with just using an rb30 sump??

expect to spend a couple thousand if you just want to drop your mods onto the 25/30 (money to cover block modification to suit RB25 head + misc modifications to make the loom/water lines etc fit. (more if you aren't doing the engine in/out work yourself)

i assume you have an R33? all the sensors/engine mounts/ballancer/water pump/oil pump etc bolt up to the block. careful using an RB25 sump make sure it doesn't have the fins that stick up below cyls 4-5 as the crank will hit them.

nismoid..

this is the exact reason i didnt go rb2530 as the cops here in adelaide would send u over the pits as soon as the car rolled out the driveways which would mean that the car would have to have another rb25 dropped into it for it to pass insepction.. too much trouble IMO!

rb25 is a good engine.. just stick with that if its a streeter..

nismoid..

this is the exact reason i didnt go rb2530 as the cops here in adelaide would send u over the pits as soon as the car rolled out the driveways which would mean that the car would have to have another rb25 dropped into it for it to pass insepction.. too much trouble IMO!

rb25 is a good engine.. just stick with that if its a streeter..

ive buggered the bottom end, no point staying with it imo when i can upgrade, may as well while its broken. Rb30 should resemble some sort of low down torque unlike the 25.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...