Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have just bought some 18", 9.5" Wide Alloy Wheels for my Skyline R33 GTST (facelift)

The offset was ET20.... this I think is where I went wrong, they look huge on the car which is fine, however they stick out by about 1 or 2 cm (wider than the arch), so no chance of lowering it any more.

I am guessing they are meant for a skyline GTR as these have wider bodies.??!?!

So now, I have a brand new set of deep dish 18's , with brand new 265/35/18 tyres... and I think I will take them off to go back to standard. :happy:

Any suggestions guys ?

Andy

That's a good width and offset for an R33. Put 235/40R18's on. They are only very slightly stretched on 9.5's. They look WAY better on the rim than 265's. Just roll the lip up under the guards and everything will be sweet. Wen the wheel travels up into the wheel arch, it cambers in too. It'll look sweet and not rub with 235's.

ET20? is that +20? I think that does fall into the GTR offset range (+12 to +24). Anyway you can easily fix it by rolling the guards like what Brad said and you'll have a better looking stance than most GTST on the road.

Hey guys thanks for the replies..

I will post a photo or two tomorrow, even the wheels are further out than the arches, let me know what you guys think after you see the pics.

I may just sell them cheap to someone with a GTR, the tyres have only 30 miles on them and the wheels were brand new out of the box today.

thanks.

Andy

Edited by Andy R33 GTS

don't stress.... that's the same size as my car and i run the tyres under the guards AND have the rears cambered out for more traction...

i had to flare the guards to accomodate my camber, but with stock camber and 235's you will just need to lip them :happy:

med_gallery_36777_3194_1082837.jpg

Hey guys thanks for the replies..

I will post a photo or two tomorrow, even the wheels are further out than the arches, let me know what you guys think after you see the pics.

I may just sell them cheap to someone with a GTR, the tyres have only 30 miles on them and the wheels were brand new out of the box today.

thanks.

Andy

Are you actually being serious here?

You have the correct wheels for your car which and easily be fitted, yet you're going to sell them to buy gay wheels? So sad :happy:

How much camber do you run? 235s would allow fitment with no camber and guard rolling, or 265s will fit with a good guard roll and some mild camber that will improve your handling.

Are you actually being serious here?

You have the correct wheels for your car which and easily be fitted, yet you're going to sell them to buy gay wheels? So sad :happy:

How much camber do you run? 235s would allow fitment with no camber and guard rolling, or 265s will fit with a good guard roll and some mild camber that will improve your handling.

Definately not true

yeh man your tyres are too big specially if thats for the front. you'll need a bit of guard work up front back will be no more than a roll ive got 10" +20 under teh guards.. little bit of camber though :blush:

chuck some smaller tyres on bash your guards a bit slam the whale and hit the local coffee strip :happy:

Definately not true

You obviously drive really hard in the twisty stuff and understand how to set up a car for aggressive driving/track.

PS. I have set up PLENTY of cars to have spot on handling, and 0 camber is NEVER used (unless I ever set one up for drag) :P

Jovejoejoejuniour - that does look sweet... yours look fine, mine stick out further... pics within the next hour.

BTM - not altered camber at all, new to skylines and in the past I have just thrown wheels on cars without altering annything :laugh:

When you say guard rolling, do you mean pulling the arches out?? out just rolling the lip in, they are further out than I might be able to resolve ..

I mean I can see my tyres through my side mirrors :P

HEKT1K - I really want these wheels so if its fairly cost effective I will keep them

alr33x - I know about the monstrous tyres - but, I have bought and fitted them now :no: besides they look right on the wheel, narrow ones woul look odd.

Thanks guys .

Andy

Edited by Andy R33 GTS

Hey Andy,

Realistically a little camber and just rolling the lips of the guards up (not pumping the guards out) should work.

Realistically I would be swapping the 265/35s for some 235/40s as that will also allow them to fit nicely on the car.

Won't be hard to get them to tuck without rubbing with a few small adjustments as the static camber will help. Pics will be a great guide :P

thats nothing man like i said ive fitted 18x10 +20 with 265/35 only rolled guards and camber... its fair low ill post pics when i get home.

you need camber arms and coilovers + guard roll will be smooth than a babys backside!

thats nothing man like i said ive fitted 18x10 +20 with 265/35 only rolled guards and camber... its fair low ill post pics when i get home.

you need camber arms and coilovers + guard roll will be smooth than a babys backside!

Hey Alr33x

^ that's serious money which I just haven't got, coilovers are megabucks.

Andy

where u located?

its gonna be tough to fix without money spent you could go for some second hand coils or hsd/bc around the 1k mark.. camber arms are cheap too guard work is $50 a corner or can do it yourself if you gotta roller.. if not head gun and mallet wouldnt recommend it though if you care about your car haha

  • Like 1

pics how mine sits.. rears are just rolled 18x10 + 20 fronts are 18.9.5 +15 but i got 25mm wider front guards so that wont help you look at joeyjoe's car.. chuck a front shot up hamish if u got one..

P1170007.jpg

P1170002.jpg

P1170008.jpg

  • Like 1
pics how mine sits.. rears are just rolled 18x10 + 20 fronts are 18.9.5 +15 but i got 25mm wider front guards so that wont help you look at joeyjoe's car.. chuck a front shot up hamish if u got one..

^^ OMG that looks amazing. What tyres are you running on the rear?

I'm based in the UK currently, I may be able to get camber adjustment kits locally and fairly inexpensive - Around £140 for the set, but how much camber will take in the top of the wheel by 1 or 2 cm?

I am pricing up some 245/40/18's now, gutted as I have just forked out for the 265's.

Thanks for the help and pics guys, much appreciated!

Andy

why fork out go back to the shop swap em over if the tyres are still new.. but the tyres wont make much difference as the rim will sit at the same point.

if the prices in the uk are steep get it from jap direct through an importer

www.jessestreeter.com would help you out i guess? many ppl here have used him top service good prices tell him your budget he will find you what you want and arrange posting to your door etc. Just ask him if he will do uk cant see why he wouldnt.

rear tyres are 265/35/18 going to a 245 next most likely. if your worried run your stockies if you still have them until you have money do get the other stuff you need.

why fork out go back to the shop swap em over if the tyres are still new.. but the tyres wont make much difference as the rim will sit at the same point.

if the prices in the uk are steep get it from jap direct through an importer

www.jessestreeter.com would help you out i guess? many ppl here have used him top service good prices tell him your budget he will find you what you want and arrange posting to your door etc. Just ask him if he will do uk cant see why he wouldnt.

rear tyres are 265/35/18 going to a 245 next most likely. if your worried run your stockies if you still have them until you have money do get the other stuff you need.

I've done about 40 miles on em so they wont take em back, or I would swap em today.

I think 245's are the way to go, wish I had spotted a post like this 2 days ago haha.

1st things 1st, camber adjustment!

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...