Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking to buy a new car and was hoping I could get some feedback here. These are the details ive got so far...

1992 Nissan Skyline R32 (GTS-T)

169 000 kms

twin-cam turbo 6 cylinder

4 Wheel Drive

4 Wheel Steer

ABS (I think)

Gun-metal grey (Metallic)

new 16in tyres

power mirrors and windows

central locking

alarm

climate control

Kenwood 6-stack CD player

automatic

2 months or 3000 kilometres warranty, whichever occurs first

$12500 negotiable.

Im pretty sure it also has ABS. Does it sound ok and is the price reasonable? I like the look and colour but im not 100% sure about the 4wd and 4ws as most r32s ive seen dont have this..

TIA.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32112-how-much-is-this-r32-worth/
Share on other sites

4WD - its not 4WD if its a GTS-T for a start.. then it would be a GTS4, so you will want to check that. I don't believe ABS was available on R32 either (except maybe the later R32 GTR).

4WS is actually HICAS, which is a semi 4WS setup. Its standard on all R32 onwards.

auto is a downer, not as much fun or control. Worth less and harder to sell as well.

I imported mine for 16k about a year ago before the threat of the 15 year rule had any effect on value like it seems to now.

Mines a manual 93 with full GTR body kit, including the ally bonnet, 92,000km. It has no ABS... which i love... coz quite frankly, i hate ABS. In pretty good nick once I tidied it up after coming off the boat.

Heres a pic:

http://www.arach.net.au/~n12a1/line5web.jpg

I wouldnt buy an auto personally, but thats just down to preference. I'd say its a pretty nice vehicle, certainly looks like its been looked after from the photos. Be prepared for the value to drop when 15 year vehicles start to become more common as these are obtained pretty cheaply now (well under 10k for the dodgy lookin ones). But none of us buy cars as investments, theyre for driving! So we expect values to drop anyway :)

Also make sure you check out the price on insurance before buying. Factor it in to your costs.

Red17

1992 Nissan Skyline R32 (GTS-T)

169 000 kms

4 Wheel Drive

new tyres

alarm

Kenwood 6-stack CD player

automatic

2 months or 3000 kilometres warranty, whichever occurs first

$12500 negotiable.

Does this make it easier?.... all the other stuff was just there to fill space and sell the car...

So basically you're looking at a standard GTS-4 (if it's 4WD), new tyres (standard), and alarm (price an alarm system that you'd like), a stacker system (bout $400 easy) and a 2 month warranty

The warranty isn't gonna do anything unless something goes wrong in the first 2 mnths/3000 kms (not a lot of time)....

Go and look around at yard, on the net and see how much the cars selling for, price the accesorries (stacker + alarm)... see what else is out there (you'll find almost every other one out there has half those k's) and see what you think... spend about an hour surfing the net and then see if you want it.

It's all personal preference, i'm not trying to shoot you down or anything, just trying to make it a lil easier to make a decision....

i bought mine for 12g's..

1993

RB20DET

136,000kms

4WD

4WS

auto

alarm + keyless entry

climate control

polished rims

mine came with ABS.

totally stock in everyway

a lady used to drive it to the train station

and her husband has a R32 GTR in the garage aswell..

but now i'm the process of converting it to a manual. $1200 for the lot.

4WD - its not 4WD if its a GTS-T for a start..  then it would be a GTS4, so you will want to check that. I don't believe ABS was available on R32 either (except maybe the later R32 GTR).
My 1989 GTS4 has ABS (so, it's at least an option, may not be standard).

$12,500 sounds a pretty good price, but the auto is a waste of time (sports cars don't have autos, IMHO)

4WD - its not 4WD if its a GTS-T for a start..  then it would be a GTS4, so you will want to check that. I don't believe ABS was available on R32 either (except maybe the later R32 GTR).

4WS is actually HICAS, which is a semi 4WS setup. Its standard on all R32 onwards.

auto is a downer, not as much fun or control. Worth less and harder to sell as well.

Yeah and my 93 GTS-T has ABS i was under the impression they all did???

All GTS4's and GTR's have ABS. Without individual wheel speeds from the abs sensors the Attessa ain't gonna work too well if it don't know when the back wheels are turning faster than the fronts... (yes it will still work due to gforce sensors and tps/speed info etc, but not as good). ABS was optional on GTSt and seen it a few times on GTS (Type-S)'s as well.

Btw, if you do buy a R32 GTS4, check the sycro's in 4th, I've before they were a weak point and when my mate looked at buying one, everyone without fail had stuffed 4th gear syncro.... I dunno why....

Does anyone know more about this 4th gear problem in gts4's?  Mine crunches on fast shifts from 3rd but not back from 5th to 4th

I think they have double syncro's on 2nd, 3rd but only single syncro on 1st, 4th and 5th. That's the way it feels when you drive one.

Edit: gearbox oil change will probably fix this!

MEGA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Por que no los dos? At least my euro brawler is reliable - unlike the JDMs I've had. Sheraaz you look familiar, did you ever come to an SAU VIC meet aaaaaages ago?
    • Drove to Cape Schanck to try to get a nice clear southern view over the ocean to see the lights a couple of days ago... instead got crappy cloud cover. Photo of a diorama of Hong Kong street scene. Taken on an iPhone 13 Pro Max.
    • Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
×
×
  • Create New...