Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone used a vipec ecu on a R34 GTR yet?

Was there any mods to do? or was it a direct plug in and tune?

Was there any issues with the MFD or any other functions not working with the vipec in it?

I am thinking of changing from my powerFC as i want to get rid of the airflow meters

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/
Share on other sites

talk to one of the dealers near you.

Scott

Insight MotorSports

Unit 8/34 Lidco St

Arndell Park

NSW 2148

Ph: (02) 9679 9766

Fax:(02) 9621 2511 [email protected] www.insightmotorsports.com.au

Lincoln Russell

Mastertune Engineering

Moblie Sales & Service

Hunter Valley & Central Coast

Ph: 0417-041941

[email protected]

Jason

Southern Motorworks

3 Rivulet Cres,

Albion Park Rail,

Shellharbour, NSW, 2527

Ph:02-42566429

Jim Ghelis

TuneHouse

11 Chalder Street

Marrickville NSW 2204

Phone: 02 9557 4000

Fax: 02 9557 4366 www.tunehouse.com.au

[email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5242663
Share on other sites

A V88 kit would work fine and get rid of the air flow meters like you want. It should also have enough inputs/outputs for everything that you would want to run in the future.

I personally run an Autronic SM4 in my R34 GTR with Autronic CDI. It works a treat and is making 900+hp at the wheels. The Vipec should do the same job.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5242934
Share on other sites

Just looked at bakes thread and seen he used the tech edge WB with the vipec,is this something that must this be used together with the vipec?

I assume the MFD worked fine and it was as simple as just pluging it in but i guess paul (Swiper the fox) is the one i want to speak to as he installed it might PM him

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5243040
Share on other sites

Just looked at bakes thread and seen he used the tech edge WB with the vipec,is this something that must this be used together with the vipec?

I assume the MFD worked fine and it was as simple as just pluging it in but i guess paul (Swiper the fox) is the one i want to speak to as he installed it might PM him

You can keep the standard narrow band sensors you dont need to get the wideband sensor to use the ecu.

The tuner will probably wire a plug in so they can plug theirs directly into your ecu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5243184
Share on other sites

Bakes used a V44 in his R34 GTR, Paul (Swiper the Fox) set it all up..

More details on bakes car/upgrades is here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...paul&st=200

Did he install an actual V44 or the plugin based on the V44?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5243187
Share on other sites

You can keep the standard narrow band sensors you dont need to get the wideband sensor to use the ecu.

The tuner will probably wire a plug in so they can plug theirs directly into your ecu.

cheers mate thats sweet as i just replaced the O2 sensors in my car and they not cheap!!

it would be nice to hear some feed back from members who actually have vipecs in there R34gtr as to drivablity compared to powerfc's mine is making 340ish klw at the wheels the tune is good but i feel with a better ecu and no AFMs it could be better

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5243311
Share on other sites

Right...i installed the 1st ever Vi-pec plug-in in an R34 GTR...found 2 issues that Vi-pec overlooked.

The Air-con clutch is always on and drains the battery....needs a relay installed in the circuit.

The injector duty on the MFD did'nt work.

Other than that the ECU ran the car so smoothly...actually better than the std ecu!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5243857
Share on other sites

Paul is the v88 going to need the AC relay installed? has there been other R34GTRs you or others have done?

Is there any limitations with the vipec? and with any updates (if any) in the future can they be installed by me or do i have to go back to the tuner?

SS8_Gohan as for the Djetro it is an option but i was thinking the new ECUs on the market must be better than a 10+years old technology of the FCs,the other option i was thinking of was the new haltech ECU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5244305
Share on other sites

I don't know if this is the same for the r34 but when i have been looking for a vipec for mine, I'm going to be running a v88 for the options and the fact that i can replace all my old wires and issues i'm having, that there is infact a plug in ecu for the 32 gtrs nick named the v66. From what i have heard these are a very good ecu, as Paul and that have said. Apparently better than the fc's but hey thats just what i've heard. Mine should be going in next week (crosses fingers nothing else screws up and puts me back again lol)

Hope this helps

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5244335
Share on other sites

What is wrong with air flow meters all of a sudden?

I agree there, If there is nothing wrong with how the car drives now than its a lot of money for not much gain, the Car wont magicly make another 20kw if you delete the AFM's

Yes the Vipecs are a great ECU, But Id spend the coin on a turbo upgrade or somthing rather than a new ECU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5244512
Share on other sites

Hi,

My car has the Vi-pec plug-in (R34 GTR).

I can confirm, relay was needed for air-con.

Injector duty does not work.

Not sure if its an issue just with mine but Throttle on the MFD only detects to 48%. Looks like its only getting half the signal it needs. I've tried the MFD recalibration but it does not work.

The car runs very well apart from that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321289-vipec-r34gtr/#findComment-5244536
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...