Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R34's has been using way too much petrol lately, I get about 200km's for $50, that's close to 17L per 100km. I cleaned the K&N air filter, tried both Shell V-Power and Mobil 98 Octane, but it didn't help.

Would anyone have any idea what the problem could be? I'm thinking it might be the spark plugs, I got the premium one's put in about 30.000k's ago and haven't changed them in a while. I change the oil, fuel filter & oil filter regularly.

Thanks for the help.

check O2 sensor between the extractor and firewall. or get nissan consult and read the R34 service manual. the manuals basically covers the whole problems. PM me if u need the R34 manual copy.

the first question has to be asked, how do you drive and what mods do you have? that can rule out pretty much all other things depending on the answer.

if you have mods like a bigger turbo, etc then you will always use more fuel if you like to give it the beans often.

also if you just drive lots of short trips and spend a fair bit of time with your foot down on boost. if you do like to boost it often then you aren't too far out of the range of what you can expect, however if you do lots of steady driving and don't spend much time in traffic slowing down and speeding up then that is a bit high and the o2 sensor is probably the main cause. this can be done with a multimeter. do a search to find out how.

how long does the car take to warm up (for the needle to come up to half way)? it should come up to temp within about 5 mins of driving (or 3 or 4kms). if it is taking much longer to do this then your thermostat needs replacing and that will get you better economy because you won't be on cold start enrichment so much. coming into the colder months this can become more of an issue as you can actually get to a point where the car pretty much never warms up so you use much more fuel.

the first question has to be asked, how do you drive and what mods do you have? that can rule out pretty much all other things depending on the answer.

if you have mods like a bigger turbo, etc then you will always use more fuel if you like to give it the beans often.

also if you just drive lots of short trips and spend a fair bit of time with your foot down on boost. if you do like to boost it often then you aren't too far out of the range of what you can expect, however if you do lots of steady driving and don't spend much time in traffic slowing down and speeding up then that is a bit high and the o2 sensor is probably the main cause. this can be done with a multimeter. do a search to find out how.

how long does the car take to warm up (for the needle to come up to half way)? it should come up to temp within about 5 mins of driving (or 3 or 4kms). if it is taking much longer to do this then your thermostat needs replacing and that will get you better economy because you won't be on cold start enrichment so much. coming into the colder months this can become more of an issue as you can actually get to a point where the car pretty much never warms up so you use much more fuel.

I imagine he doesn't hit boost very often...

Thanks for the replies guys.

mad082, I don't hit the boost often since the car is non-turbo :D but thank you for the reply, I usually shift the gears around 2.5k's RPM's, I don't really drive hard.

I found a thread on how to test the O2 sensor with the paperclip method, so I will do this on the weekend. Only mods I have on the car is an exhaust system and splitfire coilpacks, I'll test the o2 sensor on the weekend, if that's fine, then I will try changing the coilpacks.

  • 1 month later...

Well I changed the o2 sensor, no improvement.

Checked spark plugs and the fuel regulator, all good.

Checked the ECU for error codes but it comes up as code 55 = no error.

I get about 320k's per full tank before the fuel light comes on.

Anybody got any other ideas with what's causing this? Bad injectors? Vacuum leak?

Fatter tires = more drag

Underinflated tires

Check for dragging brakes. Also check the park brake/handbrake.

Get your wheels re-aligned.

If your car is a manual - check for a slipping clutch

If your car is an auto get the automatic serviced.

Check the vacum line to the variable length intake manifold's acuator. This can cause the car to act sluggish at low RPMs and also lower the engine torque - therefore you will be pressing the accelerator more.

Ensure you are using light weight engine oil nothing heavier than 40 weight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually everyone on the roads was really well behaved. The only person that did any minor tailgating was a local hoon in a Turbo Focus. Unfortunately we weren't going the same way so there was no grand initial D touge battle. Lots of people pulled over and let me through. The amount of "Hey man nice car, omg skyline, nice 34 man woo" was suprising. Like really suprising. Like almost annoying. My partner was obviously surprised, she'd never seen anyone in the real world point out the car/like the car/want to chat about the car before, so to have like 3 people per day mention it was notable, I could finally say SEE? SOMEONE THINKS THEY'RE COOL. Everyone was also pretty suprised about the weather. Every day was dry and about ~13-14C. Mount Wellington had a sign that said they close the gates at 9pm and I was heading up there at about ~7:30. It was VERY apparent that conditions were getting significantly worse by the minute on the way up and down. The road on the mountain was terrible though, it's no driving road. I have various suspension related questions now. Luckily it was only about 20 minutes from where we were staying to the top of the mountain as said Google maps. We only had the 2 nights in Hobart. We went to the Farm Gate Market though which was really good - And went down to the Hastings Thermal springs/caves down there during the day. I'd definitely be up for going back again, so luckily there's a few more sights yet to see. Didn't get to do the west coast/queenstown/cradle mountain so this was supposed to be a 'scouting' trip anyway of sorts if I were to one day do/take part in/organize a more car-focused trip. As for the boat, it wasn't bad. Well it was bad, but not in the way you're thinking. We did the night trip which leaves at 6:45 (though you have to be there ~2 hours earlier) and arrives the next morning at about 6am. There is nothing to do on the ship. If you plan accordingly and bring a book/tablet/show to watch/charger you can just chill out, take some Travacalm and just sleep through it. The food there is an extremely basic buffet that costs $32 a plate, or $14 for a $3 pizza. The way back we had a travel kettle and a few different types of cup noodles and made our own tea/coffee in the room. This was a far superior way to do it. At the very least book one of the rooms with beds. I guess as we were in the off season we didn't have room mates. You get an option for rooms with 4 beds (2x bunks) or a room with just the two bottom beds. There's also some option for a deluxe queen bed but it's much pricer. We've been on sleeper trains in Asia before so we figured this is similar (and it was)
    • You just gotta be really, really, really clear and decisive with what you want your end product to be. 99% of people who want this conversion aren't "I want to run a 295 front tyre!" so they don't really need the widebody. They just want the OEM body to look a little less dumpy, so bonnet, bar, skirts job done with some camber, stretch, slam. It's when you want that, but then decide to pivot later you get big problems. See also if you're willing to get an all in one fibreglass bar, and you're willing to accept fibreglass problems like cracking the entire item on a driveway, instead of just a piece attached to the bottom, etc etc etc. Decide this all before buyin'.
    • After @Kinkstaah debacle, I'd never want to try and get it right 😛
    • The hood lines up with the fenders. The front bar doesn't perfectly line up with the fenders where the wheel arch is. You have to 'squeeze' the front bar 'in' as it wants to naturally flare out and be longer on the sides. There's a few threads where people notice this when they only swap a GTR style bumper and front bar. Unless you have genuine OEM items - you may be better served getting conversion kits. There are GTT bumpers to fit GTR hoods. There are GTR hoods (non genuine) to fit the GTT bracketry. MAY  
×
×
  • Create New...