Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wife and I are thinking about upgrading the intercooler on the car next week and was shopping around and come across this kit from Just Jap... So it is crap or good...

And as its a kit this should just drop right in without to much to worry about

the only things that does worry us the Silicon Joiners as they look like the cheap ones and the thermo fans may be in the way.....

Looking for a good Oil Relocation Kit still any ideas?

why I at it should I look into a big and better transmission Cooler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321484-intercooler-and-oil-relocation-kit/
Share on other sites

Relocation kit for oil filter would be handy as its a messy job otherwise - if you get an oil cooler consider getting one with a thermostat as otherwise you may be running too cold much of the time. S2 trans cooler is much better than S1 and probably adequate.

I got the just jap kit and its fine :P not 100% direct fit , but then again what is?

the oil filter relocation kit would be ACE! its a hard spot to get to and yeah leaks oil all over the place when you change the filter, then you need to go and clean it with Degreaser once the new filter is back on again.

As far as the trans cooler goes , you MIGHT have to replace that. I went thru a bit of head scratching and ended up getting a PWR kit and replacing the original oil cooler. I was worried that replacing the factory oil cooler with a thinner PWR one would not be good enough , but the car has not missed a beat since - and - the aircon is MUCH cooler , must have something to do with the fact that it does not have the big chunky oil cooler in the way. The PWR one is much more thin.

Take a look at the HDI kits I gotthe new HD2 kit and it is an awesom kit, no need to trim the rails or anything.

Well that's what I need as I dont want cut the car just for a intercooler sweet I have a look around

I just got the Just Jap kit cause it fitted my budget - was ALMOST " plug and play" dont get me wrong .. I just had to custom make some brakets etc

Which one

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=339&page=1

Cooling-Pro Type 1 Intercooler Kit - Nissan Stagea WGNC34

Or

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=339&page=1

Cooling-Pro Stealth Series Intercooler Kit - Nissan Skyline & Stagea

As like I said I dont want to cut the car at all

Which one

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=339&page=1

Cooling-Pro Type 1 Intercooler Kit - Nissan Stagea WGNC34

Or

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=339&page=1

Cooling-Pro Stealth Series Intercooler Kit - Nissan Skyline & Stagea

As like I said I dont want to cut the car at all

Hi ok well 1st one you will need to mod car as it`s has pipe over RAD & you may need to CHOP FAN to fit PIPEWORK,

2nd one should be ok ,but again if you have STOCK BAR you may need to do few light mod`s,not MANY ARE BOLT ON JOB alway`s few bit`s to sort out ,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are black hose clamps as well if you care. Plazmaman for example sells some: https://plazmaman.com/product/black-hose-clamps-premium-quality-stainless-breeze/
    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
×
×
  • Create New...