Ride Height`s

[chuckie]

Hi LAD`S & LASS`ES,

OK RIDE HEIGHT`S WHAT you HAVE,

PLEASE PHOTO`S OF FRONT & REAR`S,

Type of SHOCK`S & spring`s PLEASE,

I will start with FRONT`S just need to fit rear`s to day & will POST ,

Ohlines with rsr spring`s,Stock & Ohlines now Ohlines is 35mm shorter then stock ok,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

[KiwiRS4T]

Currently running Bilsteins with Tein springs -about 340 front 350 rear (sits a lot lower at rear with 4 wheels, a fullsized floorjack, tools and fuel drums). Have since got clear front indicators .

[GoldZilla]

Is your car green, Bob? If so, it's more of a twin to my car than Hugh (66yearold)'s or his son's - neither are s1 RS-Four's converted to manual!

Mine's lowered on the Sydneykid Bilstein/Whiteline set-up, no idea of front and rear ride heights, I'll have to measure them later.

Old photo:

[chuckie]

Ok ,

Back`s in & ride height is 380mm ,

Rear Shock`s are NISMO,

so here`s rear height & pic of Shockie,

Side on of car too ,

Cheer`s Chuckie,

PS,SIDE ON PHOTO`S Would be BEST as we all see what car look`s like ,

[M I K E]

~330mm eyebrow front and rear

think in the pics i was running tein coilovers but have since swapped to RG's

[KiwiRS4T]

Yep my car's dark green like yours (not so keen on the light green) got an R33GTR box and looking for some R33 or R34 GTR rims!

Is your car green, Bob? If so, it's more of a twin to my car than Hugh (66yearold)'s or his son's - neither are s1 RS-Four's converted to manual!

Mine's lowered on the Sydneykid Bilstein/Whiteline set-up, no idea of front and rear ride heights, I'll have to measure them later.

Old photo:

[SABBAi]

Here is mine. 340mm fronts, 330mm rears. Tein Dtly Master Super Low down comfort spec.

[chuckie]

Hi Guy`s just a QUESTION on DRIVE SHAFT ANGLES .what`s the normal with Lowering car ?,

as we all have DROPPED them down what angles ar e we looking at ,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

[Punk72]

Looking good there SABBAi mine is opposite to yours 340 rear and 330 front, I am thinking of changing it to 340 all round, bit worried about to much camber and killing my tires.

I hadn't even given the cv joint a thought

[stagman]

Not sure what my car is at, but it's low and i had it up on the hoist today. The inside of my tyres are f**ked due to the camber! as are my front CV boots, Just more money i can spend on the car without adding to it's appeal. yay haha

[M I K E]

The inside of my tyres are f**ked due to the camber!

i'll point it out again in this thread, tyre wear is due to bad toe settings (excessive in or out)

you can have tyres last a long time with alot of camber

[wolverine]

With correct toe but lots of camber how do the tyres look when they are finally shagged?

[stagman]

i'll point it out again in this thread, tyre wear is due to bad toe settings (excessive in or out)

you can have tyres last a long time with alot of camber

So i ha a quick look, what do i need to get to adjust toe setting?

[Punk72]

I agree about the incorrect toe killing tires really quick because thats how i killed my first set they only lasted a year and totally bald.

if you have the right camber setting's your tires will last a lot longer then if your running a lot of camber from lowering your car, in time the inner corner of your tires will be worn and the outer will still have plenty of tread left, if you where running correct camber all of your tires would wear evenly,

well that how i understand it, correct me if i am wrong

[A31-RB20]

My old RS4S

Tein HR coilovers and adjustable camber arms on the rear.

[wolverine]

I agree about the incorrect toe killing tires really quick because thats how i killed my first set they only lasted a year and totally bald.

if you have the right camber setting's your tires will last a lot longer then if your running a lot of camber from lowering your car, in time the inner corner of your tires will be worn and the outer will still have plenty of tread left, if you where running correct camber all of your tires would wear evenly,

well that how i understand it, correct me if i am wrong

I know it will shag out the inner edge of tyres quicker than a sensible camber setting.

I am assuming the significant negative camber is being used for cosmetic reasons but I can't understand why a proper alignment wasn't done and all variables were checked and adjusted when new rims or suspension height changes were made.

To me it seems obvious that if you don't check and set all aspects you will get excessive tyre wear.

[Punk72]

I know it will shag out the inner edge of tyres quicker than a sensible camber setting.

I am assuming the significant negative camber is being used for cosmetic reasons but I can't understand why a proper alignment wasn't done and all variables were checked and adjusted when new rims or suspension height changes were made.

To me it seems obvious that if you don't check and set all aspects you will get excessive tyre wear.

my comment wasn't directed at you wolverine, i was questioning mike's comments about the correct toe, I am no suspension expert but that was how i understood it

[pyro-ns]

i'll point it out again in this thread, tyre wear is due to bad toe settings (excessive in or out)

you can have tyres last a long time with alot of camber

???????????????????????????????????????????? assuming you rotate the tyres often and have totally neutral toe, what's your solution with negative camber (say, 3 degrees negative all round), to wear out the middle of the tyre?

[M I K E]

of course if you run a lot of camber you'll get uneven tyre wear. that's pretty self explanatory.

my statement is that you can get plenty of life out of your cambered wheels if you have good toe settings. it is to do with camber thrust, which i won't go into detail, but this may explain it to most

When a wheel is set up to have some camber angle, the interaction between the tire and road surface causes the wheel to tend to want to roll in a curve, as if it were part of a conical surface (camber thrust). This tendency to turn increases the rolling resistance as well as increasing tire wear. A small degree of toe (toe-out for negative camber, toe-in for positive camber) will cancel this turning tendency, reducing wear and rolling resistance.

[M I K E]

???????????????????????????????????????????? assuming you rotate the tyres often and have totally neutral toe, what's your solution with negative camber (say, 3 degrees negative all round), to wear out the middle of the tyre?

you're missing my point i think, and i'm a little confused as to what you're trying to ask?

if you're running 3 degrees negative camber of course you're going to suffer from tyre wear to the inner edges, and if you rotate them you'll end up with worn shoulders on both sides with more tread in the middle - which is the norm.

if you want your tyres to wear dead even, then run zero static camber (which i wouldn't recommend) but even still they won't wear dead even due to independent suspension and dynamic camber (camber changes under load).

my original point is, if you want to get the most out of your tyres with a little negative camber, run a couple of degrees toe out

i hope that's helped?