Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

still deciding between -5s or -9s

There arent many results for -9s in the dyno thread so if you have them could you provide details on what kind of power you are making with them as well as any key modifications (besides all the standard crap) that you think helped you to get to your power figure.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322850-garrett-gt2860-9s/
Share on other sites

I remember disco saying that out of all the turbos garrett make for hks the -9 has no modification by hks so therefore the -9 is exactly the same as the gtss minus the actuators.

Hks however use their actuators on it, so the higher tension on the spring will cause boost to come on a little earlier and might not settle at the same level as the garrett actuators.

U can also use your stock actuators on the -9 but again i haven't seen anyone who has tried it to see when and how boost comes in.....something i myself would love to see results for,with this being the determining factor of "which turbo is better" with the choice of actuator used.....something i think can be tweaked non the less using a good ebc

+1 for Don Data and NIGTR.

Also remember the -9s don't come with actuators, and you really don't want to be using 20yo actuators on your new turbos. So, you could put HKS actuators on the then you're 100% equivalent to GT-SS. IMO You should decide between -9s or -5s based on your power goal, and go for the smallest turbo that meets that goal.

Does anyone know the price of new HKS actuators to suit?

It's crap that the -9s are the most expensive compared to the -7,-5,etc...

I have heard that -1s are the same as -9s but they include actuators. Is this true and anyone know about pricing?

Edited by HecticGTR
I remember disco saying that out of all the turbos garrett make for hks the -9 has no modification by hks so therefore the -9 is exactly the same as the gtss minus the actuators.

<cut>

Really? I'm pretty sure I read that the compressor wheel or something on the HKS GTSS is slightly different to the Garrett, but otherwise they are identical.

From reading the power graphs I've noticed the HKS GTSS is usually slightly close to the 330rwkw :happy:

Oh, please post up in the RB26 sticky so the info doesn't get lost.

I'm looking into the Hypergear highflow with 2860RS cores, it looks interesting but not sure if anyone besides the 300ZX guys have tried it...

my goal is 320awkw... from reading the dyno thread it seems as though the GT-SS are def capable however not everyone is reaching that number...

A profec B should solve all the actuator problems right...

anyone know when the SS hit full boost (with cam gears)... 3.5k?

lol ok... where did you pick yours up from Sean?

Boostin imports, but I'm sure you can get a good deal at CGC too. Basically any Garrett dealer, but shop around! :happy:

I might be using stock actuators, but may go the reinforced HKS style one's.

My R32 had R33N1's, then HKS2530's, so now I chose the -9's for the 34 to have the feeling of the N1's with almost the oomph of the 2530's for the street.

Really? I'm pretty sure I read that the compressor wheel or something on the HKS GTSS is slightly different to the Garrett, but otherwise they are identical.

From reading the power graphs I've noticed the HKS GTSS is usually slightly close to the 330rwkw :)

Disco would have been talking about the -7s with that comment. The wheels on the -9 are the same as GT-SS.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
×
×
  • Create New...