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bad choice :thanks:

Justification?

Exedy and daiken (same company) are one of the bigger OEM suppliers of clutches, that means ALOT of cars come stock with exedy clutches.

Justin, the HHHDB is a good clutch mate. As stated its going to shock you how bitey and much of a leg work out it is, but its not truly excessive and prefectly drivable as a daily by many standards.

Betting you will be a happy camper :yes: GL

My HD exedy died after three months. Was supposed to handle 400rwhp. It didnt. Tried another one to be sure same shit. My JB feels so much better cost a bit more but ive already wasted more on the exedy in materials and labour. Its a personal experience. 2 exedy clutches i was dissapointed with 1 JB cluth i am very happy with.

Edited by Pattygtst

I would put my last dollar on the excedy slipping within 6 weeks at that power level. I have had multiple bad experiences with them.

Gaurantee it.

Anyway, not my car so I don't really care.

Edited by James_03

the current clutch in it has done 50,000kms 8 test n tunes 1 powercruise 1 skidpan and has seen 330rwhp for 49.000kms, only recently been upgraded to 400rwhp.. and it was a $400 5puk sliding performance heap of shit clutch lol..so they cant be that bad?.. im not a person to spend $1500 on a clutch.. i just cant justify the money.. not on a car thats street driven and only 400rwhp.. cause i see alot of ppl have single this twin that.. on there poxy 180kw cars.. and its like why the f**k do u bother? a stock one would handle that power.

Edited by l0WRB

Yeah $1500 is to much when you could just keep buying ones that cost about $400. The only problem is you'll probably need to replace the $400 10 times more frequently then the $1500 one. You do the math.

I would put my last dollar on the excedy slipping within 6 weeks at that power level. I have had multiple bad experiences with them.

Gaurantee it.

Anyway, not my car so I don't really care.

Willing to put money on it? My exedy sports organic has held 400HP for over 6 months now and has not slipped once.

Its not $1500 for a Jim Berry one, more like $1350 - $250 for trade in of your old clutch so $1100. I got one to handle 280rwkw (one spec down) and paid $920 after trade in. I thought the mechanic had fitted the wrong clutch cause I swear it was just as light as stock. The only difference is the clutch point is a bit narrower so have to take a bit more care for a smooth takeoff. Have done repeated hard launches + clutch drops no issues. Although I am not running 400rwhp so its not a direct comparison.

Sigh, this is getting complicated. The JB full monty, as per Jims mouth, is not built from an oem skyline clutch kit. I will not go into details of the mans secrets, not that they are worth anything to the banana benders who would want to know anyhow.

This nonsense about exedy clutches slipping in 6 weeks is exactly that. So many cars come stock with exedy clutches, so many performance cars come stock with them, so many people use them, a couple of banana benders on one forum cant take that away from the company. End of story.

Has everyone seen the damage a JB clutch did to finelines car? No need to go into detail, Jims clutches I am sure are fantastic to say the least. Realistically, shit happens.

Justin, I contacted NPC last night and got the following info:

We have 3 popular single plate options for your application.

1) 10” heavy duty organic kit up to 300 rwkw daily driver $643.50

2) 9.5” heavy duty sprung 5 puk button kit $643.50 up to 350rwkw

3) 10” heavy duty sprung 5 puk button kit $755 up to 400rwkw

I have nothing to do with NPC so I cant say these prices stand for everyone or arent subject to change ETC although that is the email I received from them today.

I havent had any exposure what so ever to an NPC clutch although am yet to read a noob failure report, so they could be worth a shot if you are feeling disheartened by the anti-exedy talk.

The letters OEM in relation to exedy are not to be taken lightly, they KNOW what they are doing.

well the 5puk sliding performance bitza clutch has let go.. well under power it has...

50,000kms 8 test n tunes 1 powercruise 1 skid pan day and its had enough haha

whats a decent clutch without going single/twin plate crap.. to support 400rwhp and drag days etc?

When it comes to drag racing,

We were given 2 legs, a GO leg, a STOP leg. The best clutch is one that isn't there. :)

There must be a decent Manual valve body Auto out there!!

Seriously though, if you got 50,000 from the last one and abused it that much. How much power were you smashing through it?

Edited by Stock e-Tune
I fitted a 5 puk excedy to a mates modified s15. Was supposedly rated to the power, was fine for the first 3 weeks then started slipping under boost.

Chucked his old single plate copper mix back in, and it was all good.

Can't say I was impressed with my first excedy clutch.

Personally I run a older ORC twin plate in my 26/30 with the larger plates. If you don't mind a bit of rattle with the clutch in then it's all good. I don't know what your mates doing with his twin plate but there is nothing wrong with them, I would go twin every time on a high torque output vehicle.

Otherwise if I had to go single it would be a JB clutch, and yes the man can talk underwater.

did you use the same bearing carrier for both clutches? if yes, then i would dare say the excedy didnt last long as the bearing carrier that worked with the nismo clutch would most likely be too long

my last clutch was an exedy (not sure which one, but single plate button)

it came from japan with it

it did 5 years with ~150rwkw and the old owner

1 year with 185rwkw

1 year with 260rwkw

1 year with 310rwkw

i treated it like SHIT, kicked the crap outta it, rode it, slipped it

it only died with 320rwkw a couple of months ago when it just started to slip in 4th on the dyno, so we ripped it out.

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