Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Stalling After Changing To Metal Induction

SargeRX8

By SargeRX8,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Well I bought a r33 metal intake pipe for my car. I bought it from a member here and he has already suggested some things to try which I will in the morning. Basically, I ripped out the rubber intake pipe and replaced it with an aluminum one. It has all the necessary ports for the BOV return and the oil air breather(which I had to block off due to using a oil catch can). I'm pretty sure everything is tight but now everytime I hit boost and clutch in the car will either struggle to stay alive or stall and there is a noticeable loss of power during power shifts.

Any ideas? I never had an issue with my stock pipe. If everything is tight, could I have damaged something? What are the possibilities and what should I be checking?

Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.

P.s I am loving the new sound!

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

You are describing an idleing problem. Most likely related to the AAC-IAC valve also could be other sensor. Did you remove and wires when you did this? TPS or MAF sensor. Any of these could have the wire conectors not pluged in properly as i know the MAF one is very hard to push sometimes and mine clicks 2 times so its missleading, without the second click it runs ruff an stalls over 2000rpm.

Recomend

Taking all pipes/tubes off and looking for leaks and splits.

Clean all wires with a wire cleaner and then electrical conector aerosols.

Re tighten all your bolts and claps back togther double checking nothing is missed then make sure all electrical plugs are clicked in place.

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted
If I drive slow without out boosting the car will not stall. It idles fine but when off boost it dies. The only thing I unplugged was the z32 plug.

Yes just make sure the sensor plug is in all the way, if it is then make sure there is no leak from a hose.

Check these things first being free and the most obious. Remember always check the most stupid simple things first

snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted

ur problem is most probably reversion, air going back to afm from the turbo wen the throttle body closes and causing ecu to go spastic, afm has to be further away from the turbo, does it still have mesh on both sides?

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted

It sounds like the effect of not running a bov or the air not going back into the intake. Are you sure the reciculation pipe is on properly? I say this because you get the same stallig after boosting from running an atmo bov or blocking the bob completely

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

plumb back your breather line, get rid of that atmopsheric catch can setup OR block off your PCV from cam cover --> plenum...

you're getting ambient air which isn't being processed by the ECU

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted
plumb back your breather line, get rid of that atmopsheric catch can setup OR block off your PCV from cam cover --> plenum...

you're getting ambient air which isn't being processed by the ECU

All I did was remove the old rubber pipe and install a metal pipe. I had the catch can since I bought the car and I never had an issue. I was looking at the design of the old rubber pipe and the return line is very close to the turbo and also actually angled and pointing at the turbo. This new one is much further up, closer to the AFM and is pointing straight down into the pipe. I checked for leaks today, found none. I checked all my wiring, its all fine. The return for the BOV is a little after the bend in the pipe. Ill get a picture. Also the car is giving a loud pop now I think due to the extra fuel during boost release. I was told by CRD today that they can eliminate the problem by putting it on dyno and diagnosing the issue. It could cost up to 1k to fix the problem and do a full custom tune for my car.

Gotta be a cheaper option out there for now. Putting the rubber pipe back on is not an option. I might get the return line for the BOV modified to face the turbo or have it relocated closer to the turbo.

Would the afm being moved into the IC piping before the throttle body help this issue?

Crans Mentor

Crans

Posted
Posted

BOV return port being too close to the afm is probably causing the issue. get a new connector welded on close to the turbo and angled towards it or relocating the afm will also fix but will require a tune adjustment

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

yeah the MAF sensor is sending messages that dont add up to the ecu just because of that little bit of air passing through the sensor. Just like previous post, your probily going to have to move the hose further away from the MAF sensor.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, As you can see I'm a Stag driver. RB25DET, like Series 2 R33, so it's the same engine, different boat.

It was stock except for BIG cannon.

Over the years (4) things have been done gradually.

First, two stage boost control.

Then 3" JJ Bellmouth Dump and Hi Flow X Force Cat, Red Line Oiled Panel Filter.

The cut out of corrugated input line.

3" Cat back, Hi Flow resonator and full 3" cannon and R34GTR side mount.

None of these mods created any problems.Still got only 9psi, but suspect the boost gauge connection leaked a bit.

Since Christmas I have fitted a Front Facing Plenum and a mid size cross flow fmic. Piping was all 60mm, 21/2", used std T/B and AFM, but fitted a pod.

First start up, it went, but AFM plug not in fully. OK after fixing. First on road, intercooler piping parted. Fix, second run

different part of IC pipe parted. It was boosting to 12/13 when hoses blew off. Its back in the garage to tweak a bit more. Runs rich as a Saudi Oil Baron's bank account.(I stole that from somewhere) Has a steady misfire right across the rev range to red line. I think the term is R&R.

With the FFP it is hard to get to the connections for the IAC/ACC wiring which I had lengthened to fit the new plenum.

But I did multi meter them to make sure they were OK. The BOV return and Cam cover return were piped back into the stock positions on the inflow pipe.

During current running tests the exhaust is black as. I am getting some condensation out of the exhaust which is a worry as I dont know if it is just high humidity and R&R that is producing the moisture or if there is a water leak across

the plenum.

My final, hopefully, problem is that, hot or cold, when the ignition is on but engine not running, a weird buzzing noise comes from "within" when the T/B is opened a bit, then cuts out when opened a bit more. I can't tell if it happens if the engine is running.

Basically I followed the ix9 procedure from this Forum which was pretty good. Stags are a bit different but I would do it again as a fun project. My son gave me the plenum for Christmas. Bloody S13 Drifters.LOL

I think its off with the plenum again ($98 for gasket) check the electrical connections for the valves and design a better

connection system. And maybe Nistune.

This is all a bit on and a bit off topic, but I think a lot of owners, me included, think you can just mod and mod and mod without other"MODS"

As is written heaps of places, Nissan"s ECUs are programmed to protect engines from meltdown during warranty period.

Hope you guys wont bag me for this. And I do have an R30, anS13 N/A, a Stagea 25G N/A, and my RS4. So Nissan Rules.

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted (edited)
plumb back your breather line, get rid of that atmopsheric catch can setup OR block off your PCV from cam cover --> plenum...

you're getting ambient air which isn't being processed by the ECU

x2

your pcv valve will be sucking air through both cam covers from the catch can and this air has not passed through your afm... extra air in the system not registered = stalling

Edited by Cerbera
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
x2

your pcv valve will be sucking air through both cam covers from the catch can and this air has not passed through your afm... extra air in the system not registered = stalling

On my set up one side of the cam cover goes into the plenum the other side goes to the intake after the AFM. So while neither side air flow goes through the AFM on recirculation the air has already gone through the AFM on the initial way in.

True?

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Its been blocked off. Note everything was 100% working perfectly before I installed the metal pipe. That is ALL i done to cause this. I need to have the bov return pipe blowing towards the turbo. One bit of returned air touching the maf will give the ecu a reading and in turn a squirt of petrol

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

After all my F&F*ing it was so simple. I had zip tied the hose from the BOV so tight the tube was blocked.No signal, boosted till hoses blew off. All fixed now. Touch wood.

Been interesting reading thru Skylines. Thank you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MidnightR32
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By MidnightR32 · Posted

      This is for an RB20DET. Sorry for not including that. 
    • MidnightR32
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By MidnightR32 · Posted

      Welp, this is where my compression lands after my rebuild. Thoughts? I have ~6 hours on the motor. 
    • Keeper
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Keeper · Posted

      Event details are now up!
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm a bit confused by this post, so I'll address the bit I understand lol.  Use an air compressor and blow away the guide coat sanding residue. All the better if you have a moisture trap for your compressor. You'd want to do this a few times as you sand the area, you wouldn't for example sand the entire area till you think its perfect and then 'confirm' that is it by blowing away the guide coat residue.  Sand the area, blow away the guide coat residue, inspect the panel, back to sanding... rinse and repeat. 
×
×
  • Create New...