Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That GTST is a 2.8 not a 2.5

REgardless of what it is its living proof that a gtr is actually a handicap if you are going for all out 1/4 mile times.

There is simply no need to hump the extra weight around when a properly set up rear wheel drive can give you the whole 9 yards.

As for the ultimate 25...Ultimate for what ?I think I went damn close to building the ultimate allrounder, Just do a solid lifter conversion then build it the same as any rb.

We ended up with 400rwkw on pump with a 35r and full boost by 3800 rpm.

It was an amazing engine and just never stopped pulling all the way to the redline (8500)

I only did one 1/4 mile pass with it for a net of 11.3@125 mph. I have no doubt it had 10's with very little work.

I do like the current 30 i am running but i miss that 25.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thats what ill be getting made next i think.

3800rpm is impressive for a 35R.

Its all in the head mate. The head was a work of art but sadly it went to god when we dropped a valve spring.

In the process of building another solid converted head for the 30 right now actually.

REgardless of what it is its living proof that a gtr is actually a handicap if you are going for all out 1/4 mile times.

There is simply no need to hump the extra weight around when a properly set up rear wheel drive can give you the whole 9 yards.

As for the ultimate 25...Ultimate for what ?I think I went damn close to building the ultimate allrounder, Just do a solid lifter conversion then build it the same as any rb.

We ended up with 400rwkw on pump with a 35r and full boost by 3800 rpm.

It was an amazing engine and just never stopped pulling all the way to the redline (8500)

I only did one 1/4 mile pass with it for a net of 11.3@125 mph. I have no doubt it had 10's with very little work.

I do like the current 30 i am running but i miss that 25.

What cams and exhaust housing on the turbo were you using?

I'm trying to plan out the build on my RB25DET NEO in my 34, with 300-320rwkW being the initial plan with more desired come rebuild time (more revs).

What cams and exhaust housing on the turbo were you using?

I'm trying to plan out the build on my RB25DET NEO in my 34, with 300-320rwkW being the initial plan with more desired come rebuild time (more revs).

>82 rear housing. tomei cams. 10.25 lift. 260 degree inlet duration, 270 degree exhaust.

Your power figure is very doable. If you want to start going beyond that then you must get the planets to align.

Port match everything from the throttle body to the dump pipe, Fat ignition system etc etc.

>82 rear housing. tomei cams. 10.25 lift. 260 degree inlet duration, 270 degree exhaust.

Your power figure is very doable. If you want to start going beyond that then you must get the planets to align.

Port match everything from the throttle body to the dump pipe, Fat ignition system etc etc.

Yeah I'm leaning on 3076R with .6 housing, merge collector manifold, 260 Tomei cams in/ex, NissTune, 18 psi and all the supporting fuel and intake/exhaust mods.

My mates car just pulled 330rwkW on 18psi with basically that set up on a Neo so it definitely works.

If I could get a 35/40 on song by 3800rpm, I'd just throw one of them on the car straight away, but without serious head work I don't think it'd have a chance of flowing like that.

You got a build thread FineLine? Would be greatly interested to have a read of it and look at your development path.

Yeah I'm leaning on 3076R with .6 housing, merge collector manifold, 260 Tomei cams in/ex, NissTune, 18 psi and all the supporting fuel and intake/exhaust mods.

My mates car just pulled 330rwkW on 18psi with basically that set up on a Neo so it definitely works.

If I could get a 35/40 on song by 3800rpm, I'd just throw one of them on the car straight away, but without serious head work I don't think it'd have a chance of flowing like that.

You got a build thread FineLine? Would be greatly interested to have a read of it and look at your development path.

I dont have a build thread as such mate. it just evolved over a fairly long period of trial and error.

The real key IMO is the head. RB heads have an inherent flow mismatch between between the inlet and the exhaust. The inlet flows almost twice the exhaust side and anything you can do to even it up helps immensely.

Porting by a competent porter, valve size, cam selection all play a part. Get it right and the rb will ooze power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...