Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I am only 14 but I'm thinking about what my first car is going to be and I would like it to be a Skyline R33 non turbo :kiss: . Would just like to know what problems have you guys come across with these cars. Also how much did these problems cost you?

Thanks, Tristan.

Edited by ILNSkylineR33s
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323239-would-like-to-know/
Share on other sites

Personally I'd hold onto the cash and get a cheap little four cylinder until you're 100% comfortable with driving... then save up and go for a GTR once you're a bit older (when insurance companies will start looking at you).

Don't bother wasting the money on a NA skyline. Also, a "P" plate in the window of any Skyline is a cop magnet - and cops don't differentiate between harassing drivers of turbo and non-turbo skylines. Save yourself the hassle.

Waiting will be good... by the time you'd be shopping for one, the R33's will be in the same price bracket as R32's are at the moment, and R34's as R33's etc.

GL with your decision mate

Personally I'd hold onto the cash and get a cheap little four cylinder until you're 100% comfortable with driving... then save up and go for a GTR once you're a bit older (when insurance companies will start looking at you).

Don't bother wasting the money on a NA skyline. Also, a "P" plate in the window of any Skyline is a cop magnet - and cops don't differentiate between harassing drivers of turbo and non-turbo skylines. Save yourself the hassle.

Waiting will be good... by the time you'd be shopping for one, the R33's will be in the same price bracket as R32's are at the moment, and R34's as R33's etc.

GL with your decision mate

^^^ That's pretty good advice for you Tristan.

Personally I'd hold onto the cash and get a cheap little four cylinder until you're 100% comfortable with driving... then save up and go for a GTR once you're a bit older (when insurance companies will start looking at you).

Don't bother wasting the money on a NA skyline. Also, a "P" plate in the window of any Skyline is a cop magnet - and cops don't differentiate between harassing drivers of turbo and non-turbo skylines. Save yourself the hassle.

Waiting will be good... by the time you'd be shopping for one, the R33's will be in the same price bracket as R32's are at the moment, and R34's as R33's etc.

GL with your decision mate

Agreed, i started with a corolla, loved it learnt to drive properly and was good on my Ps, now im 20 and own a R33 GTR :rofl:

Just my two cents but for your first car ide go out and get a cheap reliable 4cyl pulsar swift etc just until you get off your p's. less chance of geting hasseled by the cops and lets face it nearly all of us crashed our first car even if it was something small. Save your money learn how to realy drive do some track days etc and when you get off those p's buy the gtr or what ever your dream car you wont regret it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...