Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah nice shot dude :) After paying $400+ for the spare ECU my finances had started to run dry! I couldn't afford the potential $1400+ to have the remap done.

I did offer to take it off you hands and take it over at least 2 months before I got mine rolling :)

Im not having a go mate, Hopefully it does happen as a remap is obviously the best option. Any idea what the hold up is?

I reckon mine revs pas 6k as it seems to hit a power band around 5.5k and hats red line at 6.75k the trouble I have is that performance is very dependant and ambient temperature, below 15 degrees its seem like it has lots more power and hits boost cut now and then. Above 15 degrees power is down.

lol....I know your not having ago Dan(although this ScottM35 dude :thumbsup: ).

Apparently the unit is complete....it's just taking a long time to get here. :domokun:

Glad to see I'm not the only one who see's what your seeing in the temp changes...I've improved it a lot with a Phenolic Runner spacer, HDI FMIC and Nismo low temp thermostat though.....just waiting on one more part which I am hoping get's here before the tune. :nyaanyaa:

Edited by Jetwreck
I did offer to take it off you hands and take it over at least 2 months before I got mine rolling :blush:

Yeah I was being stubborn, I really wanted to get it rolling but realistically it was not the right time. I was also wanting to see how other people were going with the piggy back systems. There seemed to be a bit of interest in the remapping but the bulk of the interest seemed to be in trying out the piggybacks first. I wanted to see what the results were there and unfortunately I now know the results were not that favourable. Hopefully SAS will come up with a stealthy tune and the remap is the way to go, as of yet however they are still not sure they can dual map (switchable) which is the option I will be attempting for once they have everything worked out and I find the results out from your remap.

Apparently the unit is complete....it's just taking a long time to get here. :(

When I spoke to Tom the other week he was of the believe that one of the Korean dudes had put the unit in a backpack and he was walking lol Hopefully that was a joke, if it was being sent by ship it could take 3-4 Weeks depending on customs. So hopefully it is close to arriving.

This appears to be Dan Watt's work:M35_VQ25DET_pinouts.doc.pdf

Thanks Bob, that was the diagram my tuner used to install the EMU and there are a couple of issues with it. I have had the workshop manual translated, just waiting on Craig to pull his finger out. :thumbsup:

The emanage/haltech route was never going to end well, these units only add or subtract timing and fuel, they don't set it where you want like a remap. I was only doing that as there was really no other option. I will be driving up to SAS when the time comes, when they pull their finger out. >_<

Thanks Bob, that was the diagram my tuner used to install the EMU and there are a couple of issues with it. I have had the workshop manual translated, just waiting on Craig to pull his finger out. :thumbsup:

The emanage/haltech route was never going to end well, these units only add or subtract timing and fuel, they don't set it where you want like a remap. I was only doing that as there was really no other option. I will be driving up to SAS when the time comes, when they pull their finger out. >_<

Im not suprised as I used the g35 diagrams and photos of the M35 harness to generate that info? Got any feedback on whats missing and incorrect and I can fix it up

Can she translate the whole workshop manual? :blink:

She could but the problem is some things dont have a direct translation so it takes time for me to work out the english for her description.Heading back to Japan in Febuary for some snow fun and intend to do some manual and parts searching.

Cad

  • 5 months later...
Any updates on the re-flash side of things?

This is a bit of a sore point among M35 owners. :D

Both Bis-e-bee & Jetwreck spent good money and a large amount of time procuring spare ECU's, and were given various assurances about the ability to re-flash their ECU's. After a huge amount of running around on their part, I believe Jetwreck's ECU has now disappeared, presumably, never to return. So he is out of pocket and no closer to the promised solution.

It CAN be done; (Nismo, G-zone, Impul and one other do it) but no-one in Australia can do it (others know more of the technical issues than I do) apparently it is quite reistant to changes.

There is no shortage of demand now, but most have given up hope of a reflash. Personally, I'm not really after much extra power, but I'd give my left nut for a linear, direct action throttle and slightly better fuel economy.

If you feel like throwing your hat into the ring go for it!

BTW wht510, I sat down & read your entire 1600 build thread the other night; Brilliant, just brilliant :ermm: .

yeh bit of a sore point......SAS in Sydney were "doing it".....but nothing ever evolved.....I started chasing on Dec 8th 2009 and still had no luck after harassing every week till August 2010(i even had a reminder set up in my calendar).

Was fed quite a few stories along the way........the last time I rang the story was that the guy who makes the readers had been taken by the army for deployment into the armed forces in Korea.....and may not get back to it until next year sometime....."apparently" it's finished and paid for just needs to be sent...... but they cannot get into his house in Korea to find and send it!

There's a couple of spare AR-X ECU's floating around at the moment so if you have another avenue and are prepared to throw some of you own money at it PM me. I'm happy with the road i'm taking atm.......just need my new motor :devil:

thanks for the feedback guys.

I'm curious about the cause of modifications to the performance and hence the ability of the factory ECU to 'keep up'.

If flashing is one of the methods of achieving stagea nirvana, then I guess I'm interested!

If and when I finally get my car delivered, i'll jump on your bandwagon and start pursuing flashing. (i mean... re-flashing the ECU)

Oh and Dale-o... Thanks for the feedback on the 'ol 1600. She's a keeper!!!

is the stagea a tow car for the 1600??

i mean tow to the track not because its constantly broken lol

Nah. Drive the 1600 to the track on semis. :blink:

Stagea was bought to replace the HR31 I owned which was obviously a coupe. 1600 only has 2 seats so not very practical. Between the wagon and the 4 door 'coupe' I should have both bases covered.

I'd be keen on fitting a tow ball to the stag, but didn't really want to tow 1080kg of 1600 and 600+kg for a tandem which I don't own yet...

Nah. Drive the 1600 to the track on semis. :blink:

Stagea was bought to replace the HR31 I owned which was obviously a coupe. 1600 only has 2 seats so not very practical. Between the wagon and the 4 door 'coupe' I should have both bases covered.

I'd be keen on fitting a tow ball to the stag, but didn't really want to tow 1080kg of 1600 and 600+kg for a tandem which I don't own yet...

HR31 :laugh: that RB20's awesome!

arhhhhh the memories.....great car's!

HR31 :laugh: that RB20's awesome!

arhhhhh the memories.....great car's!

Love that video Craig, espesially the run out of turn 4. My 31 never sounded like that :blink: . If it did I'd sprobably still have it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...