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Get a new sump to remove front drive sharft modify gearbox to remove front wheel drive stuff install into car with the 26 loom and ecu

is there much involved with the computer side of it or can i just leave all the wiring on the motor an put it thruogh the fire wall an plug up to the ecu

run power to it an wire up ignition..? or would i be better off pay a auto electrican to do the wiring side of it..?

There are auto elec workshops around that you can send your wiring looms to and they will patch them together, then label them. It's about $600 from memory... look through zoom and hpi mags for the contact details.

Whatever you budget for the conversion... double it.

Also, while it's out- have the bottomend inspected and throw in a crank collar and oil pump. If your going to swap the turbo's, do it now too.

J.

Its not quite as simple as everyone makes out.

I have just completed this conversion on my 32 gtst.

post-71053-1275796706_thumb.jpg

As everyone says the sump has to be modded. Theres a couple of different ways to go about it. But because of all the oil starvation issues the 26 engines are renowned for, if you are going to block the driveshaft holes up you may as well increase the capacity and add baffles/ trapdoors while your at it. I ended up geting mine done through high octane racing and they did a top job and the capacity is around 10litres.

I used a 33 box, and had to have the tailshaft cut as 33 tailshaft didnt fit and niether did my old 32 tailshaft. Everyone told me that the 33 tailshaft would fit but this was not the case.

In regards to wiring, I used the complete 26 loom from ecu to engine but didnt use the body loom which ran from the electrical box on the drivers side of the engine bay to a plug on the 26 loom. This caused a few issues as that provides power to injectors and something else. We had to run a seperate power wire to join that back up and installed the resistor pack.

There are heaps of other little thing that you dont think about and the comment that someone made saying what ever your budget is for conversion double it could not be more true.

If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask

Its not quite as simple as everyone makes out.

I have just completed this conversion on my 32 gtst.

post-71053-1275796706_thumb.jpg

As everyone says the sump has to be modded. Theres a couple of different ways to go about it. But because of all the oil starvation issues the 26 engines are renowned for, if you are going to block the driveshaft holes up you may as well increase the capacity and add baffles/ trapdoors while your at it. I ended up geting mine done through high octane racing and they did a top job and the capacity is around 10litres.

I used a 33 box, and had to have the tailshaft cut as 33 tailshaft didnt fit and niether did my old 32 tailshaft. Everyone told me that the 33 tailshaft would fit but this was not the case.

In regards to wiring, I used the complete 26 loom from ecu to engine but didnt use the body loom which ran from the electrical box on the drivers side of the engine bay to a plug on the 26 loom. This caused a few issues as that provides power to injectors and something else. We had to run a seperate power wire to join that back up and installed the resistor pack.

There are heaps of other little thing that you dont think about and the comment that someone made saying what ever your budget is for conversion double it could not be more true.

If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask

hey im still in 2 minds at the moment weather to go all out an do the 26 or keep the 20 an work it.... im just not sure i need to work out power for money i think.. thanks for the input.. cheers

  • 4 weeks later...

It is as easy as they say

Send your sump to Leon at Performance Metalcraft. He converted my RB26 sump to 2WD and he also modified it so hold more oil and added baffle plates. He does the sumps for Hi-Octane so by going to him your cutting out the middle man :P

Take your harnesses and send them off to Sideshows Performance Wiring. Jim will do the cutting and shutting for you and send it back to you ready to plug in and fire up :)

Otherwise its pretty straight forward. If i can convert our S14 to RB26 using nothing but Nissan components you will have problems converting yours.

And i would scrap the RB20, it will never compare to the RB26 :D

  • 3 weeks later...

Don't believe all the above talk. Some is true and some is absolute rubbish. I did the conversion about 8 years ago in my carport after weighing up modding the 20 or just go 26 for the same cash.

You can chop the diff off the sump without requiring welding if you are smart. I managed it fine after reading all the b/s out there saying to use all these different sumps and talk about custom sumps. Wasted a fair bit of time before I started the conversion sussing out which sump to use due to all the inaccurate articles out there. The 26 sump gives the g/box housing good support also. No need to mod it if your not running slicks. Just add an extra litre of oil.

Use the RB20 engine mounts.

The loom is a direct plug in if you have the complete loom. Might have to run one wire to power the resitor pack? The

Don't know where all this talk about loom mods is coming from. Its not needed. Somebody is scamming a few of you boys. $600 to do nothing sounds ok to me. Hell send me the loom and I'll do it for $300 in a one day turn around. I'll save you $300 right there.

If you have the front cut all the heater hoses will line up and same with radiator.

As Dmac said in his conversion post he had probs with the p/s pump in his conversion you need to possibly run the rb20 bracket or give it a file. I think the pully ratio's might be different because I needed another p/s belt. Can't remember what I did to to the bracket but I never bought anything.

Made my own front pipes for $50 in 2.5 inch and had to buy the belt so $15 and modded a falcon radiator hose to fit because it was ready on a Sun arvo $15. I wouldn't double any costs. I was a 1st or 2nd year apprentice back the so money was tight. Would have spent maybe $100 on top of the motor cost to do the conversion and would have taken 2 weekends and a few nights in between to have it driving.

Just run the rb20 g/box first off because its easy and cheap and doesn't need to be removed to put the motor in. A 20 box should handle the power of a boosted std 26 fine. Mine lasted several drift nights and industrial estates plus a few circuit days with 255's on the rear. Just use the gtr clutch

With this info you should be able to do it in a couple weekends.

Hope it help you and clears up some of the confusion. I did it a fair while ago but its the best I can remember.

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