Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm with Terry on this, Camry is the one to get, resale, reliable, roomy, economical, safe ish, adequate power [for its type], low insurance etc etc etc.

Boring as hell, but sometimes even that is a plus. At least you are never disappointed.

only because they are dirt cheap already. the resale on a late model camry is dead set terrible. you can pick up one that is only a few years old for $10,000. the resale is worse than a late model commodore or falcon.

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im already glad i posted that lol, have suggestions i wouldn't have thought of. does the r31 have abs and airbags? my gf will be driving it a mostly so i'm a bit keen on safety.

how does the 626 go mate? feel and drive alright?

i used to have a 94 camry and thought it was not too bad for what it was, had the shoes replaced in the rear drums one day and the brake balance has been really rear-heavy since lol

get a 31 mate, i was in a similar boat to you, i needed a cheap car that i could drive for a few months b4 i went to england on my gap year and the mrs needed a car to refine her manual driving in and then drive once she got her p's

so i bought a 31, i think i paid $2500 for it

since then its been driven by her for a couple of years, done a couple of trips from qld to tas and its rarely missed a beat

there was a point when it wasn't running but that was due to me fiddeling and taking bits off and not putting them back in right

if you get a 31, just budget for a new dizzy cos its the only thing that goes wrong with them

if she is learning to drive in it then your better off not having abs cos it means she will learn what to do so that she doesn't need abs kicking in cos she slowed down already

its a pretty durable car, they dont really suffer from rust (some have seen rust under the front quarters so check there, but thats about it)

its not great on fuel but its not bad on it either, it get about 10-12l/100km but its soooooooo comfy on the highway

either get a 31 or a really cheap corolla that uses S.F.A. fuel

Get a 5k loan on top of your current 5k and buy an NA liberty. Cheap to run, cheap to service, cheap to insure.

For example: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...5&silo=1011

I just had a service done on my Sti Lib, $119.00.

missus sister had one the model before that. was nice to drive, comfy, went well, nice interior (other than woodgrain). was getting a little bit on in life (160,000kms, so not that old) and started to get some issues. centre diff was going (apparently a semi common problem), and a few other minor issues that were going to be rather expensive to fix (about 2k). the mechanic told her that her best bet was to sell it off and get another car, LOL.

Get a 5k loan on top of your current 5k and buy an NA liberty. Cheap to run, cheap to service, cheap to insure.

For example: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...5&silo=1011

I just had a service done on my Sti Lib, $119.00.

just renewed the insurance on my 31, should have been $270 but went up to $340 cos we changed the address, still cheap tho

the good thing with the 31's is that a new motor is only gonna set you back a few hundred and they don't tend to die (many stories involving motors being pulled down and the factory hone marks are still there!)

would be good if it was better on fuel but i think the handbrake is dragging on ours and the diff is a bit f**ked so it would contribute to increased fuel consumption

if you get a 31, just budget for a new dizzy cos its the only thing that goes wrong with them

if she is learning to drive in it then your better off not having abs cos it means she will learn what to do so that she doesn't need abs kicking in cos she slowed down already

sorry, whats the dizzy?

i have to respectfully disagree with you there, while i agree it is important for all people to know how to stop a car quickly without abs, it is always comforting knowing it is there and there's no doubt that abs reduces chances of an accident

the mechanic told her that her best bet was to sell it off and get another car, LOL.

hahahahaha good mechanic!!

sorry, whats the dizzy?

rascal! :thumbsup:

nah it's the distributor I hazard to guess. bluebirds have the same issue too.

also have you inspected/test driven any of the suggested cars yet?

Edited by jaxt

yeah distributer

after the 20 years the bearing dries up and heats the crank angle sensor up which is in the bottom of the dizzy

not too complicated to do, just set the engine to tdc, pull the leads off the top, pull it out and slot it back in (remembering the orientation)

i know what you mean about abs, its an excellent thing to have and no doubt it has saved many ppl's lives but i think too many ppl rely on it and dont understand what its designed to do and how it does it

but for the sort of money you are thinking of spending i doubt you will get anything with abs and airbags unless its korean and if you want something safe without abs the 31 is about as solid as they come

mine rolled down my driveway cos i didn't pull the handbrake on enough (its an average design and you're best to leave it in gear too) and it rolled into our house, put a small ding into the bricks but left nothing on the car

i also know someone who had the same thing happen but it took out his shed, just went straight through it lol. car was fine, shed was not

if she is learning to drive in it then your better off not having abs cos it means she will learn what to do so that she doesn't need abs kicking in cos she slowed down already

Learning to drive without ABS teaches you the wrong technique for an ABS equipped car in an emergency. If she's likely to be driving a lot of non ABS cars, then it's a handy skill to have. However, if she's only going to drive ABS cars (just about anything made in the last 15-20 years) then knowing how to drive a non ABS car is more likely to cause her to have an accident than knowing what ABS does in an emergency.

When ABS first came out, there wer quite a lot of accidents from people trying to drive them "normally" or even worse panicking when the ABS cuts in and lifting off the brake (because it starts vibrating under the foot)

At the very least, all drivers should get a feel for what ABS does in an emergency, but that's another argument entirely

how about Honda Civic? They are pretty good on fuel and reliable too, especially in your price range, you can get one made in Japan, I reckon the older model is better the new one, like EG.

Corolla is good, but just too many, civic is cool.

  • 1 month later...

just wondering, opinions on a mistubishi magna, 3.0L v6. there's heaps of them with airbags and abs for 3k. missus likes the look (not questioning it) and its cheap and safe.

have a major design project due for final year in a couple of weeks and moving soon after that, then as soon as funds allow will be test driving as much as possible

having owned 2 magnas, i would say go the 3.5L if possible. and if possible get a manual one as they are pretty fast as well (14.8 at willowbank with just a catback exhaust). i had no mechanical problems with mine despite them having a reasonably hard life (especially the first one). only downside to them is the turning circle is pretty shocking, and the front seats really need seat covers as the cover they have from standard is pretty ordinary and a bit coarse.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...