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My Maf Murdering Problem.

mrcat

By mrcat,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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mrcat Rookie

mrcat

Posted
Posted

I have blown 3 MAFs in about 7 months, I have heard they are a weak point however I think I may be killing them a bit easier than I should be able to. I have concluded that all three times that I killed them I was at redline in triptronic mode. I can drive it hard when its in auto without any problems. Should this happen if I redline or is there something else that could be causing this?

The only mod I have on the car is a straight through 3" exhaust, other than that its factory.

I don't have the power duct open and never have.

Any help would be appreciated.

ps. Whats the best Maf to get for these instead of paying $340 bucks to nissan?

2003 Stagea 250t rs Four

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andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

Not sure I know any answer to your problem but I can tell you that at redline the MAF is putting out between 4.77 - 4.88v, even on a stock car.

So the MAF is only just capable of keeping up with the motor. I am not sure that even going to 5.0v is going to ruin your MAF but what it should do is create a big back fire as the motor retards and dumps fuel into the cylinder to protect the motor.

Cheers

Andy

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

There are a few Maxima ones on ebay at the moment, not sure if they are the same but this seller has three for sale. They certainly look the same.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Must say it sounds a unique problem! I don't know the answer either but if you replace the MAF with a different unit with different values you will need to retune the ecu which in your car is still, to my knowledge, impossible.

If you are planning on any more mods some sort of piggyback such as e-manage would enable you to tune a bigger maf if that is going to fix your problem.

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

you can cut out the silicone out from the top to expose the board inside

what happens in the old nissans is that the pins where the plug comes in gets fractured and you get a dry solder joint

just a touch from a soldering iron and a dab of solder and they are all good again

not sure if its the same for the m35's but if your killing them at this rate it could be worth looking at

mrcat Rookie

mrcat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There are a few Maxima ones on ebay at the moment, not sure if they are the same but this seller has three for sale. They certainly look the same.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

My maf has 5 pins in it the maxima ones only have 4 pins. Also I have no markings or model numbers of any kind on my maf. Someone couldn't possibly give me the numbers off of theirs so I can try and find a match online?

Stagea_Neo Experienced

Stagea_Neo

Posted
Posted (edited)

OMG! 3 in 7months that f....d!

Maybe a bare wire in the loom touching metal somewhere.

Check out Mr Muffler, see if they can order a bosch one, think they are about $300.

My r31 (rip) was 20 years old before anything crapped itself, 1st the MAF, TPS then some other things.

Pretty sure mine was related to a high pressure spray :cool:

Edited by Stagea_Neo
mrcat Rookie

mrcat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Emanage ultimate with a map sensor will do the trick...

I don't think these units can be repaired when they fail, I have tried. Definitely not a dry joint on the board.

Thanks for the help, What sort of money did it end up costing you to install the Emanage? Did you do the install yourself or get someone else to do it? Also what model Emanage do we use with the m35?

Cheers

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted
OMG! 3 in 7months that f....d!

Maybe a bare wire in the loom touching metal somewhere.

Check out Mr Muffler, see if they can order a bosch one, think they are about $300.

My r31 (rip) was 20 years old before anything crapped itself, 1st the MAF, TPS then some other things.

Pretty sure mine was related to a high pressure spray :blink:

i'd agree with Pete, a bare wire or a short in a loom plug or ecu could be frying them. i'd test and inspect the wiring, or get someone to test it, before putting another one on and blowing it up too.

the chances of having 3 AFM's with dry joints is pritty slim. i haven't really heard of anyone with that problem on a M34, it more of a problem on the older RB series motors.

mrcat Rookie

mrcat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i'd agree with Pete, a bare wire or a short in a loom plug or ecu could be frying them. i'd test and inspect the wiring, or get someone to test it, before putting another one on and blowing it up too.

the chances of having 3 AFM's with dry joints is pritty slim. i haven't really heard of anyone with that problem on a M35, it more of a problem on the older RB series motors.

Thanks guys, I have had a quick look at the wiring the first time it happened but i'll have to get the multimeter into and have a really good look.

Just out of curiosity what happens when you redline in your m35s?

mrcat Rookie

mrcat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I used to get a close up view of the windscreen, with the emanage I get a smooth 7000 rev limiter.

Is your emanage install and tune all done and finished now? I am seriously considering going down this path, if I do would you mind discussing in depth further? I have to find someone here who is confident to do the tune.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Its all running but will never be finished. Evolving more describes it. :domokun: I like being able to adjust and monitor everything myself. (I hope to be able to tune it myself one day.)

If you go the Emanage route, you will definitely need to find a competent tuner to do the install.

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