Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just put in the latest drag version of the os giken box, Something my tuner says his never seen before he said it was a new type, The gears were huge he claims, Alittle noisy but im not worried. Neways Now this happens very rarely usually in the first 3 gears, As im booting it a miss a gear on the odd moment and the revs go through the roof 8-9000rpm, Is that harming my engine? I have stock internals but everything around i have modded cams, injectors, pump, PFC bla bla and the rest , only thiing i need now is the internals done. But neway i just feel like i've hurt the engine in someway and i get realllly shitttyyy when it happens as this car is my pride and joy, What harm am i actually doing when this occurs?

Your motor should have a rev limiter still so damage to the motor would not be something crazy, although standard oil pumps and rev limiters dont go hand in hand with the RBs.

Another thing to note is that when you do that you are flaring your clutch, this will kill it alot quicker than it should.

Its all timing, it shouldnt be an accepted out come that you 'missed a gear'. Try driving fast in slow motion, sounds ridiculous but it works.. After a while ull get into a nice groove.

GL

Ty 9500 on a stock engine with N1 turbs! then you are getting somewhere, accidently saw that when I first got my 32, had fcon v pro computer.

I never had any troubles when it went that high. Just don't limiter bash, that kills oil pumps!

Ty 9500 on a stock engine with N1 turbs! then you are getting somewhere, accidently saw that when I first got my 32, had fcon v pro computer.

I never had any troubles when it went that high. Just don't limiter bash, that kills oil pumps!

haha hates when it happens! Nah i never limit bash

Edited by GTRAAH

GTRAAH you should clarify what box you've got.

OSGiken make more than one gearbox option.

I'll guess you have a 5spd kit that goes into your standard gearbox case. When you say latest drag box, people will assume the OS88 is what you've got

Sorry to hijack but kinda on topic, with regards to limiter bashing. Would a launch control like the gizzmo set at a much lower rpm say 4-5000rpm put stress on the oil pump? If someone can explain why as well that would be great

cheers Pat

LOL i do know how to Drive!! no one is perfect mate it happens! 20k??? wtf no yes i think n1gtr got my drift its 5spd kit that goes in the casing Mark at hills said there was a street version and drag version and i have the drag version. He said he has never seen this one before must be new.

LOL i do know how to Drive!! no one is perfect mate it happens! 20k??? wtf no yes i think n1gtr got my drift its 5spd kit that goes in the casing Mark at hills said there was a street version and drag version and i have the drag version. He said he has never seen this one before must be new.

yeah dude the gears in them are pretty massive ive ordered the 5 speed drag version myself

did u get it with the input shaft as well??

there rated at 800hp i think so u shouldnt break it with a stock motor i dont reckon

I was told they can withstand 1200hp this guy they know had the same box and he has done PLENTY of 9 sec runs in it, and still solid. Is the gearbox meant to be alittle notchy i would of thought that its like a brand new gearbox as in perfectly smooth gear changes like a brand new car, I dont know input shaft?? is that the main shaft? if so i put an r33 gtr one in there they are alittle stronger.

I was told they can withstand 1200hp this guy they know had the same box and he has done PLENTY of 9 sec runs in it, and still solid. Is the gearbox meant to be alittle notchy i would of thought that its like a brand new gearbox as in perfectly smooth gear changes like a brand new car, I dont know input shaft?? is that the main shaft? if so i put an r33 gtr one in there they are alittle stronger.

A correctly built OS box should be nice and smooth...

Yeah they are rated at 1200hp with a 9k rpm shift limmitation- OS recomends 800hp

The input shaft is the splined shaft sticking out of the front of the gearbox. It transfers the rotational torque from the motor/clutch to the main shaft in the gearbox. These are a "weak" link for high hp GTR's. Unless your planning to run 400rwkw or more- it's not needed.

The OS gearsets are designed for the later r33 GTR box.

J.

A correctly built OS box should be nice and smooth...

Yeah they are rated at 1200hp with a 9k rpm shift limmitation- OS recomends 800hp

The input shaft is the splined shaft sticking out of the front of the gearbox. It transfers the rotational torque from the motor/clutch to the main shaft in the gearbox. These are a "weak" link for high hp GTR's. Unless your planning to run 400rwkw or more- it's not needed.

The OS gearsets are designed for the later r33 GTR box.

J.

Are input shaft and main shaft the same thing? i think it did come with the input....... Well i know that when i snapped 3rd on my stock box he said something wedged itself between the main shaft and put smal hairline cracks in it, he said to me that this shaft doesnt have force on it so it doesnt ever brake he said he had one from an r33 so he used it. The only reason i broke it is because of the gear braking and wedging itself in it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...