R32 Gtr - 4wd Problem

[Tomek]

The last few months I've been having dramas with the 4wd.. Most of the time's I turn the car on the 4wd/ ABS lights comes on & stays on (rear wheel drive only).. I drive the car around for 30-60 minutes turn it off & back on & the lights disappears & the car functions properly (4wd works).. It does this like a pattern, one whole day it will be in Rear wheel the next it will function properly.

So far I've only checked fluids & searched for tampered wiring... I've tried searching similiar topics but im yet to find a thread which succesfully diagnoses the above mentioned symptoms..

Thanks in advance

[blind_elk]

How old is the battery?

[Tomek]

It's a fresh one, been in the car for 7 months.. Although engine was rebuilt & battery relocated to the boot.. Could this be anything to do with it?

[GTR1993]

When you start the car can you hear the 4wd pump priming? Mine takes heaps longer when its been sitting for a while. I tried to bleed the system but didnt help. I think the pump is on its way out.

[blind_elk]

Did you fit heavier power and earth cables for the relocated battery? Skylines are notoriously sensitive to voltage (or lack of it). You may be draining too much power through a "small" cable during the start process, which requires a large recharge rate to get the battery back to "normal". The ECUs see this high charge rate as an error, and pack a wobbly.

[Tomek]

When you start the car can you hear the 4wd pump priming? Mine takes heaps longer when its been sitting for a while. I tried to bleed the system but didnt help. I think the pump is on its way out.

With this said, yes I believe it is the 4wd pump (near abs?) which takes a good 3 seconds longer (going by buzzing sound) to prime then my 2 bosch 044's .. Are you having similar problems with your car? What are your plans

Did you fit heavier power and earth cables for the relocated battery? Skylines are notoriously sensitive to voltage (or lack of it). You may be draining too much power through a "small" cable during the start process, which requires a large recharge rate to get the battery back to "normal". The ECUs see this high charge rate as an error, and pack a wobbly.

I'll have to look at the car to confirm but from what I remember the cabling didn't look "unusually big", what sort of cabling is acceptable?

edit; come to think of it mate, the car usually starts up & gets the 4wd & ABS light.. After I drive it round for a bit (charging it up like you said) & then turn the car back on it'll play ball & function normally.. Does this sound reasonable? How would i go by resolving this problem as im not very brainy when it comes to electronics.. thanks

Edited June 10, 2010 by Tomek

[CeJay]

read your attessa ecu codes, it's in the boot and will be flashing when the 4wd light is on.

[SiR_RB]

when my 4wd pump primes, either first thing when i start the car, or for 1 sec or so while driving the car, the hicas light comes up on my dash, and steering will go stiff for that brief second. soon as the priming stops, hicas light goess off everythings normal....very weird

oh yeh and i noticed the lights dim ever so slightly when it does so

:S

[sydking]

Last few days in my GTS4 the AWD light has been off, and when it kick in the slip light comes on, acting as normal.

Start the car later in the day and back to its old trick of the AWD light being on, the AWD still works when the light it on.

I can here the pump in the boot buzzing on start up, and the times the light stays off i hear the pump buzzing as the light flickers then stays off.

Also anyone have problems turning tight circles and out or parks ect? It the AWD, it feels like it gripping and it shudder the car slightly untill i straighten the wheels up.

Ive had it looked a few times by different mechanics, no one can find a problem.

[SiR_RB]

Yep tight circles and reverse kerb side parking it abit hard, 4wd sends torque to the front wheels and the car shudders. I think the hicas is turning the rear wheels at low speeds and it's dragging the rear wheels while they are turned. That's what I think anyway, I'm gonna install a hicas lock bar, hopefully fixes this prob

[MrStabby]

Shudder while turning tightly can just mean the LSD is tight (which is a good thing!). I didn't think that ATTESSA put any torque to the front in that situation. It *should* be smarter than that.

[SiR_RB]

i can actualy see the torque needle flick up while doin a reverse parallel park, or 3 point turn lol

then again i got an aftermarket steering wheel (nardi) and if the steering is slightly off while driving, i cant put the indicator stalk left or right....seems like the steering angle sensor is out, how the hell do you align it up properly?

[blind_elk]

Yep tight circles and reverse kerb side parking it abit hard, 4wd sends torque to the front wheels and the car shudders.

From memory, and strange as it seems, the problem is with the TPS.

[SiR_RB]

Tps ? The position of it is wrong? How/who can check my tps?

[blind_elk]

I think it was a problem with the plug being partially disconnected.

[SiR_RB]

hmmm will check this plug and see

[SiR_RB]

Tps isn't the problem, sick of guessing what it could be, hicas lock bar will be going on hopefuly this weekend. Problem solved lol