Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the car when it had 68,000km Fresh from japan, now its 116,000kms Ive also done the 100,000km Service, On top of all these mods bellow,

Type B Tomei adjustable Cams ( Cant remember the measurments, but they are lumpy on idling)

Tomei Dump pipes

Sard 720cc injectors

Sard intank fuel pump

PFC

Z32 AFMS

Air pods

Garret -5 turbos

Fuel Regulator

Greddy Boost Controller 2 profec B

Oil - Air seperator catch Can

Xtreme Single plate Heavy Duty Clutch

Os Giken 5 gear set

Alluminium intercooler/turbo piping

Oil cooler

Spitfire coils

3.5 inch exhaust

600hp rated Cat convertor

ALL INTERNALS ARE STOCK

Now long story short I got a tune done but little did the the tuner know there was a rip in one of the hoses this was before i got the piping done, So he set it to 15psi and the car was doing 316-320awkw, He pretty much tuned the car around the leak and everything looked fine, after i got the the pipiing done the car went quicker id say the boost went up automatically, must of been all that extra air going to through. Since then i have taken it to the tuner, his played alittle with the mixtures and so on but didnt touch the boost assuming its where he left it, he was pretty happy with everything, VERY little Knock. I checked the boost recently cause i found out how to and it peaked at around 21psi And now id say its 350awkw-360awkw.

Is this bad for the car? because its got stock internals how long roughly would will she last with all this beating last time i checked the compression was around 165psi on all cylinders. that was at the 100,000km mark.

Edited by GTRAAH
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324144-is-this-bad-for-my-car/
Share on other sites

with a good tune there is no reason a street driven RB26 cant last a while @ 350rwkw

BUT

imho you should re dyno it and have the boost set where YOU are happy with and have the power level that YOU are happy and confident with.

edit: when this happened to me, we fixed the leak and my tuner didn't even finish 1 pass as he noticed the boost hit 26psi and was still climbing.

run was pulled and boost was re-set

make of that what you will :wacko:

with a good tune there is no reason a street driven RB26 cant last a while @ 350rwkw

BUT

imho you should re dyno it and have the boost set where YOU are happy with and have the power level that YOU are happy and confident with.

edit: when this happened to me, we fixed the leak and my tuner didn't even finish 1 pass as he noticed the boost hit 26psi and was still climbing.

run was pulled and boost was re-set

make of that what you will :wacko:

Im definately happy with 21psi but i feel that it might climb alittle higher but nothing past 22psi id say. But if i set it to 21psi i want to keep it around 3-4 yrs before i do my Internals Etc So i want it too last for that long

Edited by GTRAAH

well im saying 3-4 yrs time i want to rebuild the insides i only drive this car maybe 2-3 times a week, Sorry i forgot to tell you all its not an everyday car as in im not boosting all the time PLUS its my weekend car, Does that change things? i want it to last 3-4 yrs healthy before an internal rebuild, And i have just talked to the tuner and he stated that it wasnt pinging or knocking on that PSI setting

Edited by GTRAAH

its hard to say what is safe amount of power as ppl with stock engines have had to rebuid as well.. generally accepted with more boost on stock internal GTR, its good to keep it around 300kw mark to "prolong" its life.. its no guarantee but perhaps better odds than pumping out another 30-50kw and placing more stress.. also if your tune is good and u look after it well, no reason it wont last the distance, but sometimes luck of the draw

Thanks BWRGTR, Is there anyway to keep an Eye out on the wear and tear?

Used oil analysis is the only way I know of. Basically, every oil change you send off a sample of the oil to a lab and they send you a report. Its been discussed here before so search if you're interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...