Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello, i am new to skylines australia and am hoping to find out some infomation on my r30. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the engine and slowly modifing the body. I would like to know if there is anybody here that has also had an R30 that they have worked on and if they could fill me in on some things.

Does anybody know where to get a body kit for this model or if R31 bodykits can be modified to fit.

what type of power would i get if i was to put a tripple carby on the L24e engine, and the cost.

where am i able to find parts for this car because they seem to be almost no existant these days.

and really anything i should consider really, thanks heaps guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324342-r30-project/
Share on other sites

hey mate where you located?

You will probably get around 150HP depending on tuning, engine heath etc.

thats not bad, but i've came along an <h1 class="vi-is1-titleH1">FJ20 TURBO ENGINE!! </h1>for 15 hundred bucks. but will it fit straight in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324342-r30-project/#findComment-5286231
Share on other sites

you wont get tripples in there legally as they wont pass the emissions for that year of car.

EFI turbo is easy, just need to collect the parts.

RB conversion isnt too hard, same for VG30det

bottom line is to decide what you want the car to do, and aim for a power figure, then budget to suit.

HP costs $$$ theres no other way around it.

There are no off the shelf bodykits except for Jenesis Japan, and ADThree and a few other 'exotic' Jap companies. The R31 kits that URAS make can be shortened/modified to suit. Costs a f**k load though.

Engine wise, tell us you power figure and we'll tell you how to get there. My personal optinion is get an RB30e freshned up and slot that in. very easy to do. could easily be done for under $1000 and will outrun any L24e there is. unless its turbo!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324342-r30-project/#findComment-5286585
Share on other sites

thats not bad, but i've came along an <h1 class="vi-is1-titleH1">FJ20 TURBO ENGINE!! </h1>for 15 hundred bucks. but will it fit straight in?

I can help you out with an FJ crossmember, but it goes further than that. The FJ motor doesn't use the stumpy R30 gearbox & if your going to try to wind up an FJ motor, you best get a bank loan coz your gunna need a new box and they aren't cheap. Your going to need at the very least an R31 RB20DET box, better off with an R32 RB20DET box, but better still, your looking at a modified Z32 box and one of these will set you back about $1500.00 plus modification.

If you want some serious poke, do as Mags suggested, do the RB30E conversion & spec it up to GTS2 spec and you will have 140 of the cheapest kilowatts around.

The VG30E engine conversion has only been done once that I know of and it wasn't easy at all and I think expensive to boot.

Mags suggestion of EFI turbo is easy is partially correct, it's the finding of the parts that are expensive and extremely difficult, as the source is very thin. The people that have the parts are very reluctant to part with them because of their rarety and one day they just aren't going to be available anymore, so they stockpile the parts for Ron.

The sky is the limit when your chasing HP, but remember for a road car, it's not shear HP that you want. Torque is the answer and there is no substitute for torque like cubic inches.

There are some R31 body kits about in Australia, everyone forgets about FibreMaster at

16 McCormack Street, Arndell Park (Blacktown)

they do side skirts & rear wings and other things for local R31 sedans and the dimensions of the Aussie R31 and the R30 are very similar.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324342-r30-project/#findComment-5286733
Share on other sites

what type of power would i get if i was to put a tripple carby on the L24e engine, and the cost.

where am i able to find parts for this car because they seem to be almost no existant these days.

Answer to this specific question...

About $1800 for a set of second hand Webbers on a decent manifold... and about $500-$1000 to dyno tune it... In itself I would say that you might get 10HP over a standard EFI settup... but if you are doing other mods to the engine (cams, porting) you will probably quickly reach the end of the standard EFI capability...

All totally illegal of course...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324342-r30-project/#findComment-5293232
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi,

I've got an mr30 and am going to be doing a rb30e transplant soon. Sick of trying to find parts for the l24 and rb30 stuff is just everywhere and also extremely cheap. Also cheap/ easy to turbo and start modifying with tons of info out there.

Should be easy enough but I'm struggling to find good solid info on strut/hub/brake upgrades for the r30!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324342-r30-project/#findComment-5383307
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Not sure why you want to go with Weber carbys (for the sound maybe) but if you go dedicated LPG, emissions are no longer relevant as they are not tested with an LPG setup.

My car is proof you do not need to spend huge $'s to get performance. I will be at the Nationals on the 11th at Colley reserve. come and say hi and we can chat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324342-r30-project/#findComment-5429057
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...