Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i take it its a normal bolt? may have to put a tight ring type spanner on it and give it a hit with a hammer to loosen....put some heat on it may make it easier... if its getin rounded maybe take to a mechanic put the car on the hoist more leverage/access should loosing up no probs...

Edited by rgr34
you can fill through the shifter, take the circlip out and fill through there

only down side is that you have to know exactly how much your putting in

because otherwise you pour oil into the car?

thanks for the response. what is the circlip?

u have no idea mate! he means if u fill it by removing the shifter from the top u need to know how much fluid u want to add as not to overfill it.. the filler plug is the level you want to fill it to not the top of the where the shifter is! .....

Edited by rgr34
u have no idea mate! he means if u fill it by removing the shifter from the top u need to know how much fluid u want to add as not to overfill it.. the filler plug is the level you want to fill it to not the top of the where the shifter is! .....

bit harsh mate coming from someone who has clearly never seen a gearbox filler plug or drain plug. I could have said you clearly have no idea since you advised him to put a ring spanner on a plug that has a metric square drive female hole on it. I'd like to see how that works. but I'm far too polite for that and would have just corrected the completely useless info you posted.

his concern about ending up with gearbox oil in the car is quite valid as if you're not careful that's what's going to happen. overfilling the box of course is not ideal but the excess will mostly just end up getting pushed out through the breather.

to the original poster. many people open the filler and drain plugs just using a sockets square drive end. the problem is they are not exactly the right size hence the plugs get a bit stuffed. socket drive ends are imperial but there is actually a kit you can buy of the right size metric square drivers to use. most good skyline workshops should have a set. you may find with the right tool it can come out. heat it with an oxy torch first (if you can safely get on in there) and give that a try. if that fails then use the fill through the shifter method. look for a guide on installing short shifters as that will show you how to remove/replace the shifter.

look for a guide on installing short shifters as that will show you how to remove/replace the shifter.

have been doing so this morning, just undid the circlip.

the engineering place i spoke to suggested similar things, ie: heating, but strongly recommended i find a new plug as they may destroy the old one in the process.

thanks for your help, now to get millions of sheets and towels to line the car haha

hey, so i took it all off but the drain plug is too tight as well. i know now that i was using a 1/2" square bolt instead of a 13mm one so i'll try to track one down and "gently" persuade it in if the bolts aren't oo mangled. from the diy i read the guy said they came undone really easily, oh well.

anyways, how do i tell the difference between the brake master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder? i've found one and a slave but not sure which one. sorry for the newbie question...

brake master is on the end of the brake booster (massive black disk thingo) and has 2 lines coming out of it for abs

clutch master is the little one next to it with only 1 line

your clutch slave is on the side of the gear box

your 4 brakes are essentially your brake slave cylinders

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...