Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys im interested in all your information regarding the aformentioned ECU's. Im looking at around 260+rwkw and am after an ECU thats up for the job.

Ive heard the Microtech has an inbuilt sensor to be able to retard the timing automatically to a preset setting dependant upon how badly the car is pinging(like in middle of summer)

However, billions of jap racers cant be wrong either??

Your info and first hand advice would be appreciated.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32535-power-fc-vs-microtech-ltx-12/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im having a LTX16 installed on my car as we speak, with about the same figure ur looking at

also remember that microtech dont really sell their product in japan, so no one there uses it

i know of a few high hp cars around my area that r using them with great success

will let ya know how it goes when i get my car back

Hi Sydneykid

no im using the map sensor, altho i think u can run twin afms on these

im running 2 extra injectors (save upgrading) that will be used in higher boost levels (28psi)

steve - how much is a wolf3d? cos i paid 1300 for my LTX16 with free installation (mate)

  • 4 weeks later...

Its been over 4 years since i had a play with Microtech and their MT8, and i had a few reasons for not liking it all that much.

But that was an older model computer...and time to move on, so maybe its time i have a look at the latest offerings, where can i get some info on the LTX16???? (anyone...anyone???)

About all i know is that thet are now offered plug in (and with laptop programmeable (3D)Are the LTX12/16s closed loop???

The plug in thing is convenient, but doesnt really bother me if it is or not as no plug in ECU's base map will run my car anyway, and am confident about wiring up my own ECU anyway.

Well, after my PFC blew up, I have a LTX12 in - needs a bit more tuning, but can see there are a couple of extra befefits....

I have now had 4 ECUs in my car - the PFC did run well, but lost settings and blew up - so I don't need that in my car.

The EMS was - well ordinary - but mainly due to the installation ...

Staty tuned for the Microtech performance..

BTW - when I was a Drag Combat today - LOTS of cars were running Microtech ECUs

BTW - when I was a Drag Combat today - LOTS of cars were running Microtech ECUs

Didnt see your car... is it safe to ask, heard a bit from James and Shane, but not the whole story.

For me its time to re-look the latest offerings, as my thoughts on their older ECUs was that they were fine at wide open throttle and could punch out great numbers for a very reasonable price. Hence plenty of drag cars use them.

But ask them to give good, crisp throttle response and they struggle, and it WAS NOT the tune, my car was worked on by 3 tuners, 2 of which are respected by everyone in NSW for their tuning ability, and the 3rd well, they are known for their 1/4 mile tuning, :Oops: .

Also needed better then std cars alternator/voltage, hopeless fuel economy, and tempermental at times regarding bizarre need to tweak the MAPS when the car had not been modified. (Perhaps the age/compatability of sensors or something, i never got to the bottom of it)

Yeah - I was there - getting sunburnt as all hell.

Car has too much power and I smoked the clutch on runs 1 & 2 - gave up after that. Embarrasing when the Andra dudes pull me over to check out where the smoke was coming from - ha ha ha .....

I won't comment more on this until after the final Microtech tune -

Who knows - I might end up going with a MOTEC - :yeah baby:

From what i have seen doing a bit of quick homework, the ECU looks to be a std off the shelf ECU, albeit wth a base tune, but uses std Microtech plug wired up with the Nissan plug , i suppose whatever works???? (The Nissan plug could do with some shrink wrap couldnt it?) It doesnt look all that neat and compact, as say the PFC or Wolf.

How many outputs, close loop, whats the internal MAP sensor rated at (2bar???), extent of datalogging if any, sequential injection on a 6 cylinder, no. of ignition drivers-must it be run as a wasted spark setup, is the rev limit fuel and/or ignition????

the PFC does this too, to the best of my knowledge (could be wrong tho)

Jimbo - PFC can't do this - Microtech can - This is a nice benefit- to me....

Roy - I've just spent an hour trying to find detailed tech info on the LTX-12 but not much out there on the net -

BTW is has a 3 bar MAP sensor....

dont think I would like an ECU to start pulling timing, if want that, get a SAFC and ITC.

unless of course the setting is removed when you turn the ignition off.

I dont see the point in paying hundreds of dollars to get a car tuned, if, as soon as the knock sensor picks up knock (eg, using too low a gear under load) the ecu starts pulling timing.

Power fc has knock sensor, that show the user when it detects knock, but its up to the driver to take action. You can pull a couple of degrees of timing or add fuel across the range with one adjustment, which will erase once you turn the ignition off, or if you remove it yourself. And of course you can turn boost down.

Beside that, whatsisname is getting very good results from his Microtec, well over 260rwkw now.

Wolf is a very nice looking ECU too, just wish I lived in the west still so SteveSST could work his magic:)

I think one variable that definately needs consideration, apart from what ecu, is who will be doing the tuning - I had a guy who wasnt very conversant with power fc tune mine and wasted nearly 600 dollars, but put him behind an autronic or motec and the guy can do wonders.

Steve , the timing thing is temperature dependant I think - they had to install a new thermo probe thingy on my intake (after the cooler) . I'm pretty sure this is the thing that changes the tune - So for me, is a good thing, cause I would have no clue when and what to change. And I think you don't have to set it if you don't want to - But safer on the engine to do this. And (as you would know) with the a $$ we spend on out cars - better to be safe than sorry !

BTW - How does 323 rwkw sound on a rough 2 hour tune. Go the HKS 3040.

nice, yeah they are a killer turbo - I expect to see a thread with a dyno printout soon and full details:)

the temp probe is temp correction - which is a good thing that power fc doesnt do for GTS unfortuneately - but I have found that tuning the car on a cool day, with conservative timing has allowed me to run 1.7bar all day, hot (40deg) or not. Detonation is really low.

Congrats on the tune, once again, post up the dyno and FULL details please - gotta love HKS turbos;)

www.microtechefi.com

Might offer more insight.

I have had LT12 for 18 months and I'm happy with it. New LT12S and LT16 have much much better processor than most, but about same power as MOTEC.

Both systems have the same processing power but the 16 has masses of inputs and outputs for proper professional racing stuff, just like MOTEC.

Tim at RPM has just conducted an intial shakedown test for the LT12S on the old JMS red 33 that had a PFC and its looking good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...