Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I recently brought a r33 gtr and it has got the common coil pack problems as it miss badly and sometimes when cold it even stalls. My question is I used to own a r33 gtst s2 and I have a set of splitfires and harness from that, can I wire them into the gtr so I can use those splitfires and also it gets rid of the ignitor box thing?

Cheers,

Trav

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325477-puttin-s2-coil-packs-in-33-gtr/
Share on other sites

A bit off topic, but I was reading a thread up here where you can fix the coilpack problems in the gtr's by putting high temp silicone on the hairline cracks that commonly appear on the coilpacks. Haven't done mine yet but seemingly everyone who has done this has fixed the problem.

its probably easier to fit the correct coilpacks and sell your old S2 stuff

it would be easy to sell the S2 stuff and coilpacks are a common failure in the skyline, so your best to fix it properly and be done with it

A bit off topic, but I was reading a thread up here where you can fix the coilpack problems in the gtr's by putting high temp silicone on the hairline cracks that commonly appear on the coilpacks. Haven't done mine yet but seemingly everyone who has done this has fixed the problem.

Its only a temp fix and also only if the insulation is the fault. If the coils broken down inside all the cleaning and insulating wont do jack

Same with an afm cleaning or re soldering 95% of the time will do jack once its f**ked its f**ked it will nearly always need a new element/hotwire

Edited by jjskyline79
A bit off topic, but I was reading a thread up here where you can fix the coilpack problems in the gtr's by putting high temp silicone on the hairline cracks that commonly appear on the coilpacks. Haven't done mine yet but seemingly everyone who has done this has fixed the problem.

Hi Ash,Better fix for you is URETHANE SEAL COAT,post-36964-1277096851_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1277101931_thumb.jpg

,

Hope this help`s you ,it`s a good fix & is not as messy as SILICONE ,& you can spray them any colour when done,

cheer`s Chuckie.

its probably easier to fit the correct coilpacks and sell your old S2 stuff

it would be easy to sell the S2 stuff and coilpacks are a common failure in the skyline, so your best to fix it properly and be done with it

Yer good point, I'll just sell my old ones and buy some new ones :whistling:

Thanks

not sure it will work as the ecu will have a differant trigger for the inbuilt ingniters vs the external igniter

Not so sure about that dave, im pretty sure they are both the same trigger. As far as the ecu is concerned, both setups have external igniters. Actually im sure it can be done, as i recently wired an rb26 ecu to run a neo headed car

  • 4 weeks later...

So is there a wiring diagram for the R32 GTR igniter box or is it straight one to one plus the extra earth as on the igniter. It has 6pins (1 2 3 4 5 6)on the cold side and 7 pins (E 1 2 3 4 5 6) on the hot side

^ too true

just done mine then and tested and working perfect...

No need to sell my DIS-005's and buy DIS-001 for my 32 GTR

Have my R32 GTR running External Igniterless using DIS-005 Splitfires and its much cleaner looking to and saved my self a head ache and money buying/selling/swapping Coils only to be undone by the commonly Faulty R32 Igniter/Amplifier :woot:

Edited by krayzie32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...